Sunday, December 28, 2008
Kahalu'u Beach--Where Visitor's Meet The Fish!
Loll in sand and sun under swaying palms, watch humpback whales dance in an exotic Kona sunset, snorkel among rainbow-colored fish on a protected reef or ride surf where the Kings of Hawai'i defined the sport a thousand years ago! Kahalu'u is the crown jewel of Kona Coast County Beach Parks. Abundant parking, disabled access, picnic tables, two shaded pavilions, two sets of public restrooms, showers and lifeguards round-out the facilities of this beautiful beach park.
Most days there is a food wagon selling sandwiches, burgers, shave ice and cold drinks at reasonable prices and a vendor renting snorkeling gear and boogy boards. This beach can be crowded on weekends, but there is always room for another snorkeler in the water.
This is the premiere snorkeling beach of the Island of Hawai'i; protected from the open sea by a jetty, the reef is also protected against commercial aquarium fishing. Thus, the snorkeling is in calm, shallow water; frequently during low tide, one can actually walk to the jetty, a couple hundred feet offshore. Also, there is an abundance of fish of an enormous variety...perhaps the best display on the island. For these two reasons, Kahalu'u is where many visitors head for their introduction to snorkeling. Dozens of Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles and a few Hawksbill Sea Turtles call this bay home, eating the limu and thrilling the snorkelers. Numerous freshwater springs and shallow water bathers make the near-shore snorkeling unpleasantly cloudy, but about 50 feet offshore the water turns crystal clear and the display of coral is nothing short of amazing. Outside the breakwater one may occasionally see deepwater species such as marlin, tuna, dolphin and small sharks. Towards the south, where the bay shallows to a series of tide pools, many species of shrimp and seaweed not commonly seen in West Hawai'i are abundant.
Northward, and outside the bay, is an excellent surf break that is for intermediate or better surfers and boogy boarders. There is a fair current north out of the bay and along the coast...swimmers caught in this current should relax and swim with the current, angling towards land...they will come to shore a few hundred yards north of Kahalu'u and be able to walk back along the road.
The breakwater predates the 15th century temple complexes in the area and is widely said to have been built by the menehune (sort of the Hawai'ian equivalent to leprechauns), but building was actually initiated to enclose the bay as a fishpond. Whether the work became beyond the powers of the Ali'i at the time to administrate or the surfing faction won-out in the battle over use of Kahalu'u Bay is not known, but the breakwater was already in disarray at the time of European contact in the 18th century.
For more information, visit: www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com and www.tourguidehawaii.com.
Friday, December 26, 2008
See Hawaii with Tour Guide GPS-Guided Audio Visual Tours!
The most unique product ever offered to visitor's of the Hawaiian Islands, Tour Guide offers GPS-guided, location aware tours in the palm of your hand. For more information see www.tourguidehawaii.com or www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com.
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Frank's Big Island Travel Hints # 5: Hawi to Kona, via Kohala Mountain road, Waimea and Waikoloa
Driving south on Hwy 270, just past the town of Hawi, you will see the turn off for Hwy 250 on the mountain side of the road. This hwy will take you over
At the other end of Hwy 250 is Waimea. This town is known for the paniolo, the Hawaiian word for cowboy, and the Parker Ranch. At 3500 ft elevation, the cooler climate is perfect for growing all sorts of fruits and vegetables as well as a variety of livestock. There are also some fabulous restaurants featuring some of the best chefs in the world. Tour Guide will tell you about the storied history, museums, tours, shopping and dining. For such a small town there is a lot to do here.
From Waimea, it’s time to head south on Hwy 190 on our way back to Kona. Along the way is
Super Tip: Finding restrooms on the road can be difficult when you are driving in unfamiliar territory. Tour Guide has a special feature that helps you to find the nearest public restroom anywhere you are on the island. This is super handy when touring with the family.
Along the way back to Kona, you will pass some of the finest beaches and most interesting historical and cultural spots on the
From
For more information on touring Hawaii in general and the Big Island in particular, go here and here.
Monday, December 22, 2008
Volcano Update! Kilauea's Longest Summit Eruption Since 1924: Halema`uma`u Reaches a Milestone
Reprinted from here.
This plume, erupting from Halema`uma`u in 1934, is remarkably similar in appearance to the plume erupting from the crater today. USGS photograph.
The current volcanic activity in Halema`uma`u Crater is now Kilauea's longest summit eruption since 1924. On November 25, 2008, it exceeded the previous record set in 1967-68, when lava erupted in Halema`uma`u for 251 days.
Newspaper articles tracking the 1967-68 eruption reported each time it reached a landmark length set by prior Halema`uma`u events. When it finally surpassed the 136-day record set in 1952, headlines touted the eruption as the second longest of the century.
Shortly after the 1967-68 eruption ended, Dr. Howard Powers, Scientist-in-Charge of the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory at the time, put its duration in perspective by noting that, historically, a summit eruption is the "normal" for Kilauea Volcano. He no doubt was referring to the 100-plus years of nearly continuous lava lake activity at Kilauea's summit prior to 1924.
We use 1924 as a frame of reference for Halema`uma`u eruptions because, in the 19th and early 20th centuries, the crater looked nothing like it does today. It was an irregular landscape of craggy spires and islands with as many as four transient lava lakes.
In 1924, the long-lived lava lake drained, causing the crater walls to collapse and explosive eruptions that doubled the diameter of Halema`uma`u to about 900 m (3,000 ft). The crater looked much the way we see it now, except that it was over 400 m (1,300 ft) deep—almost five times deeper than it is today.
Since the fateful events of May 1924, Halema`uma`u has erupted 18 times. The first was just two months later, in July 1924, when an 11-day eruption formed a "puddle" of lava on the crater floor.
Over the next 10 years, six eruptions—in 1927, 1929 (two), 1930, 1931, and 1934—took place within Halema`uma`u. They varied in duration from 2 to 33 days, but each eruption added a layer of molten rock to the crater floor. With thicknesses averaging about 18 m (60 ft), these layers reduced the depth of Halema`uma`u to about 245 m (800 ft).
The end of the 1934 eruption marked the beginning of Kilauea's longest period of quiet on record. For nearly 18 years, there were no eruptions anywhere on the volcano.
Kilauea made up for lost time when molten lava returned to Halema`uma`u in June 1952. The spectacular eruption went on for 136 days, with lava fountains sometimes visible above the crater rim. By the time it ended, the eruption had pumped more than 120 m (390 ft) of new lava into the crater.
During the next 30 years, Halema`uma`u erupted nine times—in 1954, 1961 (three), 1967-68, 1971, 1974, 1975, and 1982. These eruptions varied greatly in duration, from about 7 hours in 1975 to 251 days in 1967-68. The volume of extruded lava also varied, with the most—84.1 million cubic meters (110 million cubic yards)—erupted in 1967-68. Surprisingly, some of the shorter eruptions were quite voluminous.
Most of the rock covering the floor of Halema`uma`u today was emplaced during the short-lived 1974 eruption. Ten million cubic meters (13 million cubic yards) of molten lava quickly engulfed the entire crater floor, except for the tops of three high spatter cones from the 1967-68 eruption.
Each Halema`uma`u eruption that took place between 1924 and 2008 has its own unique story. Some are hair-raising, as in 1931, when a USGS engineer had to run for his life to escape sulfur dioxide fumes that overtook him at the crater rim. Most of them, however, describe activity strikingly similar to what we are experiencing today—gas emissions, ash-rich plumes, eruptions of frothy lava, and poor air quality.
The story of the 18th—and longest—Halema`uma`u eruption since 1924 is unfolding before our eyes. So far, it differs from the previous eruptions in that molten lava is not visible on the crater floor. Lava is close to the surface, though, as evidenced by ash, pumice, and spatter ejected to the crater rim and by a few rare glimpses of molten rock in the vent.
How long the current eruption will last and whether lava will flow on to the crater floor remain anyone's guess. But, as of November 25, 2008, Halema`uma`u reached another milestone.
Activity update
Kīlauea Volcano continues to be active. A vent in Halema`uma`u Crater is erupting elevated amounts of sulfur dioxide gas and very small amounts of ash. Resulting high concentrations of sulfur dioxide in downwind air have closed the south part of Kīlauea caldera and produced occasional air quality alerts in more distant areas, such as Pahala and communities adjacent to Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park, during kona wind periods. There have been several small ash-emission events from the vent, lasting only minutes, in the last week.
Pu`u `Ō`ō continues to produce sulfur dioxide at even higher rates than the vent in Halema`uma`u Crater. Trade winds tend to pool these emissions along the West Hawai`i coast, while kona winds blow these emissions into communities to the north, such as Mountain View, Volcano, and Hilo.
Lava continues to erupt from the Thanksgiving Eve Breakout (TEB) vent and flow toward the ocean through a well-established lava tube. Lava breakouts in the Royal Gardens subdivision have been active throughout the past several weeks, sending flows onto the coastal plain. As of Monday, December 1, these active flows were within 200 yards of the National Park boundary. Activity at the Waikupanaha ocean entry continues, with occasional small explosions. A deflation-inflation cycle began at the summit early on December 4, and was still ongoing at the time of this writing (afternoon of December 4). These cycles normally cause short-term fluctuations in lava supply to the flow field.
Be aware that active lava deltas can collapse at any time, potentially generating large explosions. This may be especially true during times of rapidly changing lava supply conditions. Do not venture onto the lava deltas. Even the intervening beaches are susceptible to large waves generated during delta collapse; avoid these beaches. In addition, steam plumes rising from ocean entries are highly acidic and laced with glass particles. Check Civil Defense Web site (http://www.lavainfo.us) or call 961-8093 for viewing hours.
Mauna Loa is not erupting. One earthquake was located beneath the summit this past week. Continuing extension between locations spanning the summit indicates slow inflation of the volcano.
No earthquakes were felt on Hawai`i Island in the past week.
Visit our Web site (http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov) for daily Kīlauea eruption updates, a summary of volcanic events over the past year, and nearly real-time Hawai`i earthquake information. Kīlauea daily update summaries are also available by phone at (808) 967-8862. Questions can be emailed to askHVO@usgs.gov.
For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general and touring the Big Island in Particular, visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Ghosts of Sacrificed Kings, Ruined Palaces and Ancient Temples - Visit the Glory of Hawaii's Past!
A region of major fishing villages for a millennium and a half, the Kailua Kona-Keauhou coastline became the religious and political center of Hawaii Island when King Umi founded his capital here in the 16th century. In 1812, King Kamehameha established Kailua Kona as the Capital of his newly united Kingdom of Hawaii. For almost 400 years, temples and palaces along this coastline served as a kind of "Rome of the Pacific", one of the great political and cultural centers in Polynesia, until the capital was moved to Honolulu in 1850 by Kamehameha III. Slipping into a sleepy, territorial back-water torpor, Kailua Town and Keauhou dozed gently through the plantation era and early statehood into modern times. Today, booming and exciting, this fast-paced area is the center of the Big Island's financial and cultural reawakening in the new century. Just remember, when I describe the Kailua Kona-Keauhou region as a "booming and exciting... fast-paced area", I mean "booming and exciting" in a very Hawaiian, mellow and relaxed way.
Many of the most important, best preserved and certainly the most interesting historical, pre-historical and cultural sites lie within the Keauhou Historic District, which stretches from Kahalu'u Beach Park in Kailua Kona south nearly 6 miles to Kuamo'o Bay in Keauhou. There are more than a dozen fascinating archeological features and sites that are easy to walk to, well maintained and quite interesting. Starting on Ali'i Drive just north of Kahalu'u Beach, let's work our way south through this incredibly, diverse, interesting and rich cultural region.
Ku'emanu Heiau is located just south of Ali'i Drive mile marker 4.5 and just north of Kahalu'u. It is perhaps the only ancient temple in the world dedicated solely to the sport of surfing. This was a luakini heiau(a temple where human sacrifice was practiced) and on the north side of the site is a laupa'u, or bone pit where the remains of the sacrificed were discarded. The temple is still sacred to native Hawai'ians so remember to be especially respectful of this unique site. Do not disturb, nor take as souvenirs, offerings left upon the lele platform. Remember: take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but footprints; Ku'emanu Heiau is a particularly striking place to photograph the sunset.
Those vine covered ruins across the street from Kahalu'u Beach are the remains of Old Helani Church, built by the Rev. John D. Paris in 1861. The church, however, was erected on a the grounds of the 'Ohi'a-Mukumuku Heiau; a powerful and holy religious temple around which swirls some of the darkest folklore and ghosts stories told around the Hawai'ian Islands.
Held in Hawai'ian folktales to have been built by the gods, 'Ohi'a-Mukumuku Heiau was re-dedicated to the war god, Kuka'ilimoku, by the Hawai'i Ali'i Lonoikamakakahiki so that he might vanquish his foe, the Ali'i of the Maui, Kamalalawalu, during their 16th century battles. It is said of these battles that when the Maui attacked the Hawai'i, the numbers of warriors was so vast that just as the first of the Maui war canoes were landing on Hawai'i, the last of their canoes were still leaving Maui. Ultimately victorious over the Maui, Lonoikamakakahiki took Kamalalawalu over to the nearby Ke'eku Heiau and sacrificed him alive to celebrate his great victory. Local ghost tales tell of Kamalalawalu and his war dogs still haunting both Ohi'a-Mukumuku and Ke'eku Heiaus.
Paokamenehune Seawall, is partly a natural and partly man-made feature enclosing the southern end of Kahalu'u Bay. Paokamenehune predates the 15th century temple complexes in the area and is held in legend to have been built by the menehune (sort of the Hawai'ian equivalent to leprechauns). However, building was actually initiated by Hawaiian leaders to enclose the bay as a large fishpond. Whether the work became beyond the powers of the Ali'i at the time to administer or the surfing faction won-out in the battle over use of Kahalu'u Bay is not known, but the breakwater was already in disrepair and disarray at the time of European contact in the 18th century.
Kapua Noni Heiau, located on a small point of land between the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Hotel's pool and the sea, was built by the Ali'i Kalanio'pu'u. This walled enclosure was dedicated to ensuring the abundance of fish. Just north of the Heiau is a canoe landing and the sacred bathing pool, Poho'okapo. Po'o Hawaii Pond, a few dozen meters to the east, is a rare freshwater spring that was strictly reserved for the use of the Ali'i as a fish and bathing pond. Near the pond is the homesite of King Kalakaua. The original Hale Kahakai O Kalakaua, or seashore home of King Kalakaua, was built here in the 1880s; King Kalakaua built his own house and an exact replica for his friend the Court Jester. Both were destroyed in 1950; this replica was erected in 1980, about a century after the original had been built.
Between the canoe landing and the Po'o Hawai'i Pond (King's Pond) are two sacred ku'ula stones. Carved or natural, large or small, stones used to attract fish are referred to as pohaku ku'ula. These two ku'ula are named Kanaio and Ulupalakua and were brought by voyaging canoe from Maui in 1751.
Look at the larger stone to see the images of a turtle, a fishhook and shark represented on it, using a combination of the natural lines of the stone and engraving. The round hole near the top indicates that this was also a "luakini" stone, or stone for human sacrifice. A loop of rope was passed through the hole, around the victim's neck, and tightened until strangulation was complete. It is not known if human sacrifice at this stone was used as punishment, to propitiate the gods for good fishing, to dispatch enemy combatants for ritual cannibalism, or some combination of these.
On opposite sides of the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Hotel Tennis Courts lie the homesite of the legendary Mo'o Twins and Punawai Spring. The fertility pit at Punawai Spring is an example of the rare freshwater springs in this area which were the only source of drinking water and were the only reasons villages could survive in Kona. In modern times, the Hotel has promoted wedding ceremonies in the glade around Punawai springs, a Western reflection of the ancient practice of Hawai'ian girls bathing in them to insure fertile child-bearing years. Legend tells us that the Mo'o Twins were prophetesses of the lizard goddess who, through time, became goddesses in their own right. Learned in medicine, storytelling and song, the Mo'o Twins were revered and beloved of the local population they served.
The reconstructed Hapaiali'i Heiau (Temple for Elevating Chiefs), a temple associated with ceremonies involving changes in rank of Ali'i and as a calendric and astronomical observatory, lies on the grounds of the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort, across the narrow tidal inlet from Ke'eku Heiau. Not much is known about this Heiau; some traditions hold that it predates Ke'eku Heiau, others maintain it was built around 1812 by Kamehameha the Great. Rebuilt in 2007 and rededicated on the Winter Solstice of 2007, Hapaiali'i Heiau today is perhaps the best standing example of ancient Hawai'ian temple architecture
Immediately south of the grounds of the Keauhou Beach Hotel are the remains of a heiau that served as both a luakini heiau (place of human sacrifice) and pu'uhonua (place of refuge). Built by the Hawai'ian Ali'i Lonoikamakakahiki in the 16th century, Ke'eku Heiau is one of the most famous religious sites in the State of Hawai'i because of its veneration in folk tales involving the 16th century wars between the Hawai'i and the Maui. Ke'eku is where the victorious Hawaii Ali'i, Lonoikamakakahiki, is said to have sacrificed the defeated Maui Ali'i, Kamalalawalu, in celebration of the great victory. The Heiau has walls an impressive 6 to 11 feet thick, and measures 150 by 100 feet in area and is currently undergoing restoration.
Carved into the rock in the inter-tidal region in front of Ke'eku Heiau is an impressive set of ki'i pohaku (petroglyphs). Due to geological subsidence of the island over the past several hundred years, these petroglyphs are visible only at low tide; be wary of the rocks when wet-they are extremely slippery. There is one large anthropomorphic petroglyph in particular that is said to represent the sacrificed Maui Ali'i, Kamalalawalu.
Lonoikamakakahiki Homesite, on the grounds of the Kona Surf and Racquet Club, is a good example of the ravaging of archaeological heritage in West Hawai'i, and the disrespectful and wasteful way in which we deal with these important resources.
Here at Lonoikamakakahiki Residence is a king's palace, 500 years old, and built by one of Hawai'i's greatest kings, Umi. This site was later inhabited by at least two other important kings (Lonoikamakakahiki and Kalanio'pu'u) as well as Kamehameha the Great. In any other state this would be an archaeological treasure, a park or preserve, but certainly showcased and cared for. In this case, in Hawai'i, a few remnant walls were grudgingly reprieved from the bulldozer's blade when the Kona Surf and Racquet Club was built by the Bishop Estate (Kamehameha Schools); the rest of this historical treasure was bulldozed into oblivion for all time. It is not even generally available for causal viewing, locked away behind the Kona Surf and Racquet Club's iron gates where only paying Club guests and pedestrian visitors can see it. Of course, there is no available (legal) parking nearby.
The history of the temple and palace precincts of Lonoikamakakahiki Residence is deeply intertwined with some of the greatest events in the history of the Island. During the 16th Century, when Hawai'i was threatened by the attack of the Maui, Chief Lonoikamakakahiki was in residence here. Historic events again overtook this location late in the 17th Century when Captain Cook was killed at Kealakekua. Kalanio'pu'u, who was then Chief of all the Island of Hawai'i, fled here to hide from British sailors bent on vengeance. Kalanio'pu'u survived the days of battle and revenge and became a figurehead elder statesman, helping to shape his fellow Hawai'ians attitudes towards the newcomers, their incredible wealth and their new religion. Kalanio'pu'u was fond of hula and built the sacred hula grounds here which today lie under the tennis courts. Here, Kalanio'pu'u passed his latter years and divided his lands between his son, Kiwalao and his nephew, Kamehameha, passing his political power on to Kiwalao and his control of the warriors, along with the war god, Kuka'ilimoku, to Kamehameha.
After years of warfare and ruling his island kingdom, the elderly Kamehameha the Great moved his Royal Court from O'ahu to Kailua in the second decade of the 19th Century. He passed a year here at Lonoikamakakahiki Residence while his palace and temples at 'Ahu'ena Heiau were re-built and re-dedicated. The royal residence has been uninhabited since Kamehameha moved to 'Ahu'ena Heiau.
Anybody wishing to view these important and impressive archeological ruins must park at the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort or Kahalu'u County Beach Park and walk more than half a mile south along Ali'i drive to the "Public Shoreline Access" at the Surf and Racquet Club.
The scenic pullout on the Kamehameha III Highway at Ohi'a Lava Caves overlooks the Kona Coastline from Keauhou Bay north past Kailua Bay to Keahole Point. This is one of the best places to watch sunset in all of Kona and is also a grand spot for spotting whale spouts, watching sunsets and canoe races.
Directly below the scenic overlook is the Ohi'a Lava Tube cave complex. These caves were used at various times as general living quarters, shade during the blazing summers and cover from infrequent storms; springs deep with in the caves also augmented scarce supplies of fresh water for Kona residents. The caves also served as places for sacred ritual and burial of important Ali'i.
Today, exploration of the caves is unsafe and most of the accessible entrances are gated or sealed; visitors are asked to refrain from entering the caves to preserve the sanctity of native burials.
A lovely natural harbor backed by volley ball courts, canoe halau and lawn, the County Park and pier at Keauhou Bay is a lovely place to spend a few moments in quiet contemplation, eat a picnic lunch, or dive into the invitingly cool waters at the end of a hot day.
Along the cliffs fronting the bay is a nature trail planted with native Hawai'ian healing plants with explanatory signs which runs to the birthplace of Kalani Kauikeaouli, who later became King Kamehameha III when his older brother Liholiho (Kamehameha II) died of measles in England. Legend has it that Kalani was still born, but the kahuna attending the royal birth immediately immersed him in the cold waters of a nearby spring, where he was at once revived. There are not many places in America where one can easily walk to the exact birthplace of a King, and this pleasant spot is one such, not to be missed.
In ancient times, the Ali'i competed with each other in the sport of Holua, or sledding. A long, steep, track way paved with stones would be constructed down slope and then covered with tamped dirt and topped with dried grass. The Ali'i would race down these tracks on wooden sleds, or "holua" as competition. These races were very dangerous and only the Ali'i were allowed to compete. Along the Ali'i Highway, just north of the turn to Keauhou Bay, there are the remains of one of the greatest "holua" or sled tracks in al Hawaii. This particular holua is unique because, not only is it the largest and longest and best preserved in Hawai'i, but also because when constructed it went all the way into the sea at Keauhou Bay. Despite this important archeological site being a National Historic Landmark, much of it was bulldozed by developers building resorts and a golf course. The nearby village of Holualoa is named after this sled way; "holua" meaning "sled" and "loa" meaning "long".
The Historic Landmark is best viewed from Ali'i Drive, directly across from the Kona Country Club parking lot.
Melancholy, lonely, desolate; this lava bench cut into the fresh scar of an a'a flow by the relentless ocean marks the place where the Hawai'ian gods died at the battle of Kuamo'o. In 1819, the year before the Christian missionaries arrived in Hawai'i, forces loyal to Kamehameha II and Queen Ka'ahumanu fought to overturn the kapu system and the pagan Hawai'ian religion in favor of Christianity. Kahuna Kekuaokalani led the last supporters of the old ways and the old gods and fought a desperate battle here to preserve their ancient way of life, and lost. Their graves, numbering in the several hundreds despite the official-looking marker at the site, are under the numerous, large stone altars erected by the victors over the very spots the warriors fell.
A walk along the dirt road that bisects the battlefield is ineffably sad and a little creepy. However, the road soon climbs into dry land forest along the lava ocean cliffs and provides some memorable hiking and sunset views.
A visit to the Keauhou Historic District is relaxing, interesting and amazing; some of the finest examples of native Hawaiian cultural history and some of the most incredible scenery and best beaches in all Hawaii are found here.
For more information and videos about the Keauhou Historic District, visit http://lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com/2008/07/10/http://wwwtourguidehawaicom-presents-a-road-trip-through-keauhou-historic-district-big-island-hawaii/
Further information about visiting and touring Hawaii in general, and exploring the historic and cultural sites on the Big Island in particular can be found at at www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com.
Many of the most important, best preserved and certainly the most interesting historical, pre-historical and cultural sites lie within the Keauhou Historic District, which stretches from Kahalu'u Beach Park in Kailua Kona south nearly 6 miles to Kuamo'o Bay in Keauhou. There are more than a dozen fascinating archeological features and sites that are easy to walk to, well maintained and quite interesting. Starting on Ali'i Drive just north of Kahalu'u Beach, let's work our way south through this incredibly, diverse, interesting and rich cultural region.
Ku'emanu Heiau is located just south of Ali'i Drive mile marker 4.5 and just north of Kahalu'u. It is perhaps the only ancient temple in the world dedicated solely to the sport of surfing. This was a luakini heiau(a temple where human sacrifice was practiced) and on the north side of the site is a laupa'u, or bone pit where the remains of the sacrificed were discarded. The temple is still sacred to native Hawai'ians so remember to be especially respectful of this unique site. Do not disturb, nor take as souvenirs, offerings left upon the lele platform. Remember: take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but footprints; Ku'emanu Heiau is a particularly striking place to photograph the sunset.
Those vine covered ruins across the street from Kahalu'u Beach are the remains of Old Helani Church, built by the Rev. John D. Paris in 1861. The church, however, was erected on a the grounds of the 'Ohi'a-Mukumuku Heiau; a powerful and holy religious temple around which swirls some of the darkest folklore and ghosts stories told around the Hawai'ian Islands.
Held in Hawai'ian folktales to have been built by the gods, 'Ohi'a-Mukumuku Heiau was re-dedicated to the war god, Kuka'ilimoku, by the Hawai'i Ali'i Lonoikamakakahiki so that he might vanquish his foe, the Ali'i of the Maui, Kamalalawalu, during their 16th century battles. It is said of these battles that when the Maui attacked the Hawai'i, the numbers of warriors was so vast that just as the first of the Maui war canoes were landing on Hawai'i, the last of their canoes were still leaving Maui. Ultimately victorious over the Maui, Lonoikamakakahiki took Kamalalawalu over to the nearby Ke'eku Heiau and sacrificed him alive to celebrate his great victory. Local ghost tales tell of Kamalalawalu and his war dogs still haunting both Ohi'a-Mukumuku and Ke'eku Heiaus.
Paokamenehune Seawall, is partly a natural and partly man-made feature enclosing the southern end of Kahalu'u Bay. Paokamenehune predates the 15th century temple complexes in the area and is held in legend to have been built by the menehune (sort of the Hawai'ian equivalent to leprechauns). However, building was actually initiated by Hawaiian leaders to enclose the bay as a large fishpond. Whether the work became beyond the powers of the Ali'i at the time to administer or the surfing faction won-out in the battle over use of Kahalu'u Bay is not known, but the breakwater was already in disrepair and disarray at the time of European contact in the 18th century.
Kapua Noni Heiau, located on a small point of land between the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Hotel's pool and the sea, was built by the Ali'i Kalanio'pu'u. This walled enclosure was dedicated to ensuring the abundance of fish. Just north of the Heiau is a canoe landing and the sacred bathing pool, Poho'okapo. Po'o Hawaii Pond, a few dozen meters to the east, is a rare freshwater spring that was strictly reserved for the use of the Ali'i as a fish and bathing pond. Near the pond is the homesite of King Kalakaua. The original Hale Kahakai O Kalakaua, or seashore home of King Kalakaua, was built here in the 1880s; King Kalakaua built his own house and an exact replica for his friend the Court Jester. Both were destroyed in 1950; this replica was erected in 1980, about a century after the original had been built.
Between the canoe landing and the Po'o Hawai'i Pond (King's Pond) are two sacred ku'ula stones. Carved or natural, large or small, stones used to attract fish are referred to as pohaku ku'ula. These two ku'ula are named Kanaio and Ulupalakua and were brought by voyaging canoe from Maui in 1751.
Look at the larger stone to see the images of a turtle, a fishhook and shark represented on it, using a combination of the natural lines of the stone and engraving. The round hole near the top indicates that this was also a "luakini" stone, or stone for human sacrifice. A loop of rope was passed through the hole, around the victim's neck, and tightened until strangulation was complete. It is not known if human sacrifice at this stone was used as punishment, to propitiate the gods for good fishing, to dispatch enemy combatants for ritual cannibalism, or some combination of these.
On opposite sides of the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Hotel Tennis Courts lie the homesite of the legendary Mo'o Twins and Punawai Spring. The fertility pit at Punawai Spring is an example of the rare freshwater springs in this area which were the only source of drinking water and were the only reasons villages could survive in Kona. In modern times, the Hotel has promoted wedding ceremonies in the glade around Punawai springs, a Western reflection of the ancient practice of Hawai'ian girls bathing in them to insure fertile child-bearing years. Legend tells us that the Mo'o Twins were prophetesses of the lizard goddess who, through time, became goddesses in their own right. Learned in medicine, storytelling and song, the Mo'o Twins were revered and beloved of the local population they served.
The reconstructed Hapaiali'i Heiau (Temple for Elevating Chiefs), a temple associated with ceremonies involving changes in rank of Ali'i and as a calendric and astronomical observatory, lies on the grounds of the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort, across the narrow tidal inlet from Ke'eku Heiau. Not much is known about this Heiau; some traditions hold that it predates Ke'eku Heiau, others maintain it was built around 1812 by Kamehameha the Great. Rebuilt in 2007 and rededicated on the Winter Solstice of 2007, Hapaiali'i Heiau today is perhaps the best standing example of ancient Hawai'ian temple architecture
Immediately south of the grounds of the Keauhou Beach Hotel are the remains of a heiau that served as both a luakini heiau (place of human sacrifice) and pu'uhonua (place of refuge). Built by the Hawai'ian Ali'i Lonoikamakakahiki in the 16th century, Ke'eku Heiau is one of the most famous religious sites in the State of Hawai'i because of its veneration in folk tales involving the 16th century wars between the Hawai'i and the Maui. Ke'eku is where the victorious Hawaii Ali'i, Lonoikamakakahiki, is said to have sacrificed the defeated Maui Ali'i, Kamalalawalu, in celebration of the great victory. The Heiau has walls an impressive 6 to 11 feet thick, and measures 150 by 100 feet in area and is currently undergoing restoration.
Carved into the rock in the inter-tidal region in front of Ke'eku Heiau is an impressive set of ki'i pohaku (petroglyphs). Due to geological subsidence of the island over the past several hundred years, these petroglyphs are visible only at low tide; be wary of the rocks when wet-they are extremely slippery. There is one large anthropomorphic petroglyph in particular that is said to represent the sacrificed Maui Ali'i, Kamalalawalu.
Lonoikamakakahiki Homesite, on the grounds of the Kona Surf and Racquet Club, is a good example of the ravaging of archaeological heritage in West Hawai'i, and the disrespectful and wasteful way in which we deal with these important resources.
Here at Lonoikamakakahiki Residence is a king's palace, 500 years old, and built by one of Hawai'i's greatest kings, Umi. This site was later inhabited by at least two other important kings (Lonoikamakakahiki and Kalanio'pu'u) as well as Kamehameha the Great. In any other state this would be an archaeological treasure, a park or preserve, but certainly showcased and cared for. In this case, in Hawai'i, a few remnant walls were grudgingly reprieved from the bulldozer's blade when the Kona Surf and Racquet Club was built by the Bishop Estate (Kamehameha Schools); the rest of this historical treasure was bulldozed into oblivion for all time. It is not even generally available for causal viewing, locked away behind the Kona Surf and Racquet Club's iron gates where only paying Club guests and pedestrian visitors can see it. Of course, there is no available (legal) parking nearby.
The history of the temple and palace precincts of Lonoikamakakahiki Residence is deeply intertwined with some of the greatest events in the history of the Island. During the 16th Century, when Hawai'i was threatened by the attack of the Maui, Chief Lonoikamakakahiki was in residence here. Historic events again overtook this location late in the 17th Century when Captain Cook was killed at Kealakekua. Kalanio'pu'u, who was then Chief of all the Island of Hawai'i, fled here to hide from British sailors bent on vengeance. Kalanio'pu'u survived the days of battle and revenge and became a figurehead elder statesman, helping to shape his fellow Hawai'ians attitudes towards the newcomers, their incredible wealth and their new religion. Kalanio'pu'u was fond of hula and built the sacred hula grounds here which today lie under the tennis courts. Here, Kalanio'pu'u passed his latter years and divided his lands between his son, Kiwalao and his nephew, Kamehameha, passing his political power on to Kiwalao and his control of the warriors, along with the war god, Kuka'ilimoku, to Kamehameha.
After years of warfare and ruling his island kingdom, the elderly Kamehameha the Great moved his Royal Court from O'ahu to Kailua in the second decade of the 19th Century. He passed a year here at Lonoikamakakahiki Residence while his palace and temples at 'Ahu'ena Heiau were re-built and re-dedicated. The royal residence has been uninhabited since Kamehameha moved to 'Ahu'ena Heiau.
Anybody wishing to view these important and impressive archeological ruins must park at the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort or Kahalu'u County Beach Park and walk more than half a mile south along Ali'i drive to the "Public Shoreline Access" at the Surf and Racquet Club.
The scenic pullout on the Kamehameha III Highway at Ohi'a Lava Caves overlooks the Kona Coastline from Keauhou Bay north past Kailua Bay to Keahole Point. This is one of the best places to watch sunset in all of Kona and is also a grand spot for spotting whale spouts, watching sunsets and canoe races.
Directly below the scenic overlook is the Ohi'a Lava Tube cave complex. These caves were used at various times as general living quarters, shade during the blazing summers and cover from infrequent storms; springs deep with in the caves also augmented scarce supplies of fresh water for Kona residents. The caves also served as places for sacred ritual and burial of important Ali'i.
Today, exploration of the caves is unsafe and most of the accessible entrances are gated or sealed; visitors are asked to refrain from entering the caves to preserve the sanctity of native burials.
A lovely natural harbor backed by volley ball courts, canoe halau and lawn, the County Park and pier at Keauhou Bay is a lovely place to spend a few moments in quiet contemplation, eat a picnic lunch, or dive into the invitingly cool waters at the end of a hot day.
Along the cliffs fronting the bay is a nature trail planted with native Hawai'ian healing plants with explanatory signs which runs to the birthplace of Kalani Kauikeaouli, who later became King Kamehameha III when his older brother Liholiho (Kamehameha II) died of measles in England. Legend has it that Kalani was still born, but the kahuna attending the royal birth immediately immersed him in the cold waters of a nearby spring, where he was at once revived. There are not many places in America where one can easily walk to the exact birthplace of a King, and this pleasant spot is one such, not to be missed.
In ancient times, the Ali'i competed with each other in the sport of Holua, or sledding. A long, steep, track way paved with stones would be constructed down slope and then covered with tamped dirt and topped with dried grass. The Ali'i would race down these tracks on wooden sleds, or "holua" as competition. These races were very dangerous and only the Ali'i were allowed to compete. Along the Ali'i Highway, just north of the turn to Keauhou Bay, there are the remains of one of the greatest "holua" or sled tracks in al Hawaii. This particular holua is unique because, not only is it the largest and longest and best preserved in Hawai'i, but also because when constructed it went all the way into the sea at Keauhou Bay. Despite this important archeological site being a National Historic Landmark, much of it was bulldozed by developers building resorts and a golf course. The nearby village of Holualoa is named after this sled way; "holua" meaning "sled" and "loa" meaning "long".
The Historic Landmark is best viewed from Ali'i Drive, directly across from the Kona Country Club parking lot.
Melancholy, lonely, desolate; this lava bench cut into the fresh scar of an a'a flow by the relentless ocean marks the place where the Hawai'ian gods died at the battle of Kuamo'o. In 1819, the year before the Christian missionaries arrived in Hawai'i, forces loyal to Kamehameha II and Queen Ka'ahumanu fought to overturn the kapu system and the pagan Hawai'ian religion in favor of Christianity. Kahuna Kekuaokalani led the last supporters of the old ways and the old gods and fought a desperate battle here to preserve their ancient way of life, and lost. Their graves, numbering in the several hundreds despite the official-looking marker at the site, are under the numerous, large stone altars erected by the victors over the very spots the warriors fell.
A walk along the dirt road that bisects the battlefield is ineffably sad and a little creepy. However, the road soon climbs into dry land forest along the lava ocean cliffs and provides some memorable hiking and sunset views.
A visit to the Keauhou Historic District is relaxing, interesting and amazing; some of the finest examples of native Hawaiian cultural history and some of the most incredible scenery and best beaches in all Hawaii are found here.
For more information and videos about the Keauhou Historic District, visit http://lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com/2008/07/10/http://wwwtourguidehawaicom-presents-a-road-trip-through-keauhou-historic-district-big-island-hawaii/
Further information about visiting and touring Hawaii in general, and exploring the historic and cultural sites on the Big Island in particular can be found at at www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com.
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Get Off The Beaten Path and See Gorgeous Puna: Jungle, Beaches, Hot Springs, Great Snorkeling and Flowing Lava!
About Puna District
Beautiful, mysterious, untraveled and undiscovered by the herds of tourists, Puna District has so far managed to avoid the overcrowding, loss of local flavor and other problems that come with the extreme popularity being experienced by other parts of this island. Puna has a somewhat undeserved reputation that, where not actually violent, dangerous and over-run with drug dealers, it is populated entirely by aging hippies, tree huggers, vegetarians, artists, actors and others of somewhat bohemian life philosophies. It is true, like any area where the median income is below poverty level, that there is a certain amount of crime, back-yard marijuana cultivation and other drug use, along with other undesirable activities going on in Puna, but the same could be said of almost anywhere in America. It is also true that the residents of Puna tend to be individualists, socially liberal, embracing of alternative culture; there are most certainly a lot more musicians, artists and poets in Puna than accountants, insurance agents and attorneys. Also true is the fact that many native Hawai'ians living in Puna regard it as the last bastion of THEIR land and may not be as welcoming as you might hope. However, the rewards of discovering Puna District's secrets are very much worth the extra vigilance and preparation to travel there safely, and the people you meet in Puna are certainly friendly and fascinating. It is truly said that the people of Puna are its greatest treasure.
Puna is a magnificent wonderland; from incredible tree-tunneled roads, geothermal fields of steam vents, lovely beach parks, raw lava flows and jungle trails, the land cries out for the visitor to put their fears aside and explore a little bit. Of course, the visitor is reminded to leave no valuables in the car, even when locked, and to be watchful and careful. But bear in mind that tens of thousands of people happily inhabit Puna without ever actually being beset by bandits. Puna is actually a generally safe place for the heads-up, prepared traveler to explore. As an interesting observation about Puna District, which is itself the same size as the island of Molokai and comprises the rainiest part of the island, is that is has but one lake and no rivers. The District is so young, the volcanic landscape so immature and so porous, that the rain, once it hits the ground, percolates immediately through the surface layers of rock. From there it seeps and flows to the subterranean aquifer--a lens of freshwater saturating the rock pores and which floats upon the seawater saturating the older rocks, formed hundreds of thousands of years ago in the ocean. This phenomenon represents a huge resource of fresh groundwater for agricultural and municipal use, but until the island ages a great deal and more soil is formed from organic debris and weathering of the rocks, there will be few rivers and lakes. Remember, very few visitors ever even see Puna District; even most residents never go here...it's fascinating, beautiful, secluded and very, very much worth spending the time to explore. Let's take a quick trip through Puna, starting in Pahoa Town and going clockwise through the district, ending up at the Hawaii Belt Road at Kea'au.
Pahoa Town
YEEEEEHAW! Wild, untamed and even a bit unruly, Pahoa Town, with it's false-front, western-style buildings and raised wooden sidewalks, looks more like it belongs in Wyoming than Hawai'i. But Wild West isn't the only subculture evident here...tie-dye banners and the general "flower-power" imbuement some businesses and citizens lend Pahoa a decidedly "'60's" feel. It has been said of Pahoa that if it weren't for counter-cultural influences, it would have no cultural influences at all. This is a bit unfair, but the people of Pahoa are proud of their independent ways and lifestyle. The charm and allure of this way of living is evident when you consider that the region around Pahoa is the fastest growing portion of the island. Downtown Pahoa is one of the more interesting three or four blocks of real estate in all of Hawai'i. An eclectic mix of truly fine restaurants, food and clothing stores, second hand stores, Real Estate agents, coffee shops and other oddments and interesting boutiques, all arranged around a downtown area of western-style false-front buildings and raised wooden sidewalks. Saying that the merchandise to be found in the Pahoa Farmer's Market is "varied and unusual" is a vast understatement and grave disservice to the creative genius of Pahoa merchants. The market is open 9-3 on Sundays, located in the middle of downtown Pahoa and is very much worth the effort to see. If parking is not available near the Farmer's Market, a sneaky alternative is to park one block up the hill at the Pahoa Pool and Municipal Park, a very short walk from downtown and the market.
Lava Trees State Monument
Under a fascinating, beautiful, lacy canopy of monkeypod trees, casts of ohia trees stand as monuments to a fast-moving pahoehoe lava flow that passed through here in 1790. When the lava hit the water-saturated ohia trees, it cooled and began to congeal around them; the rest of the flow passed on, or perhaps drained away down the numerous cracks in this area that formed contemporaneously with the flows. Although the original ohia trees burned away, the quickly cooled lava around them stands here today, hollow, with imprints of the tree bark inside, giving testament to their origin. The crack which likely drained the lava away is still visible, just left of the restrooms. Lava Trees Park offers trails to hike and a restful, bird-filled jungle to sit and listen to. You can spend between 20 minutes to an hour wandering the trails, here, exploring and discovering. Be careful, however, the area is riddled with hidden cracks in the ground which can make exploring hazardous. You may wish to avail yourself of the restrooms at Lava Tree State Monument; no matter which direction you have approached the park from, they are the last public facilities for some distance.
Kapoho Village/Disaster of 1960/Puna Geothermal Fields/Virgin Air
A small farming village of perhaps 300 people, Kapoho drowsed into the 20th Century near the modern-day intersections of Highways 132 and 137. On the 13th of January in 1960, a rift eruption half a mile long opened and shot fire fountains 3/10 of a mile into the sky. Burying orchid and papaya farms, the lava advanced on Kapoho, entering the town on the 28th of January and eventually burying as many as 100 homes and businesses. There is a positive, less destructive side to this awesome volcanic energy. The hot rock, deep within the earth, heats ground water. When tapped by drilling and brought to the surface, the release of pressure on the hot fluids causes them to flash to steam, which is then used to turn electricity-generating turbines. On the Island of Hawai'i, the Puna Geothermal Fields generate very nearly a fifth of all the electricity used in the county at facilities quite near here. Here, you are very nearly at the easternmost point of Hawai'i Island; breath deeply. Our winds come from the east, and the air you are now breathing is amongst the most pure in the world. Called "virgin air" it is studied by scientists from all over the world. Interestingly, just a few miles to the west, some of the most dangerously toxic atmosphere in the world exists where the current lava flows from Pu'u O'o vent on Kilauea flow into the sea, filling the air with clouds of microscopic glass shards and aerosols of hydrochloric and sulphuric acids.
Kapoho Tide Pools, or Wai Opae
Stuffed with abundant sea life, this sprawling basin of lava tidal pools is a remarkable treasure for snorkelers of all abilities from the starkly frightened to the seasoned veteran. Moorish idols, yellow tangs, various wrasses and eels, sea urchins and sea cucumbers abound and there is even some nice corals in the deeper pools. The largest pool is called "Wai Opae", which means "fresh water shrimp". Keeping to the left of the main channel keeps one away from most of the ocean currents, which can be surprisingly strong, even in small channels, where ponds empty into the ocean. A wonderful place to spend the day, Kapoho Tide Pools has wonderful snorkeling for people of all levels as well as other general beach activities, including just plain beach exploring, shell collecting, swimming and fishing.
Ahalanui Pond
Also called Pu'ala'a or "Secrets Beach", this spring and ocean-fed, man made pool is a testament to the vagaries of life on an active volcano. The pool was initially constructed as a place to cool off when the springs ran chilly cold. Eruptions in Puna during the '50s and 60's reworked the subterranean waterworks and now the springs run hot and the pool is a comfortably warm 90-95 degrees or so. Deep enough for swimming, the pool has an open connection to the ocean which flushes water and reef fish into the pool at high tide, keeping the water freshened, tolerably warm instead of volcanically hot and the underwater scenery interesting. With the gentle aloha breezes, swaying palms and surf whooshing against the seawall at the pool, it can be really hard to drag oneself out of the hot pool and continue on exploring...that's OK, soak awhile longer. You came to Hawai'i for rest, renewal and relaxation anyway, didn't you? This is a great place to do that. Picnic tables, pavilions, pit barbecues, showers, lawns and all the pleasantries of a civilized park are available at Ahalanui Pond. Leave no valuables in your car and be vigilant if you stay soaking here, after dark.
Isaac Hale Beach Park
A lovely black sand beach with an expert surf break, Isaac Hale Beach Park is one of the very few real beaches and boat ramps in Puna District; as such this park sees a lot of traffic. It is also the site of the best surfing and some of the wildest snorkeling and scuba diving in Puna. If you do get in the ocean here, go in left of the boat ramp-be alert to bodacious boat traffic (they won't be alert for you) and for fairly dangerous ocean currents. Understandably, given the crowded nature of this small place, some locals are less than welcoming of visitors. Graciously share this ocean treasure with the residents, but and leave no valuables in your car. A short path along the shoreline leads from the parking lot, past a house with abundant "No Trespassing" signs, strolls a few minutes then turns about 20 yards into the jungle to a secluded, perfectly lovely natural hot spring that is wonderful for soaking. Locals usually don't bother with swimwear here, you shouldn't feel required to, either. The facilities at Isaac Hale Park are recently rebuilt, refurbished and expanded and comprised of picnic facilities, showers, toilets and a vast new parking lot. Unfortunately, a few fairly nasty port-a-potties remain. Camping is allowed with a County permit.
McKenzie State Recreation Area
Secluded under a canopied ironwood forest and ending at great cliffs against the turbulent open ocean, McKenzie State Recreation Area feels like the End of The World. There's no beach and no running water, but spectacular shore fishing and a wonderful sense of "aloneness" make this a great place to get away from the bustle of Hilo or the fumes of ubiquitous tour buses. As mentioned earlier, Puna is the home of the unusual and here at McKenzie Park are some very unique and curious picnic tables made from slabs of pahoehoe lava. There are also trails that fan out from this 13 acre Recreation Area into the surrounding forest which beg to be explored. You may have noticed the huge boulders that line the shore-cliffs along this stretch of Red Road. These mega-ton rocks were hefted out of the sea by violent tsunami waves. Imagine the power of a wave that could lift a boulder of this size from the bottom of the ocean, hurl it a further forty or so feet to the top of the cliff and deposit it many yards inland. Being here will give you a new appreciation of, if not absolute horror at, the power of tsunamis. Camping at McKenzie State Recreation Area is by State Permit, and except for the decrepit state of the facilities, is a genuine pleasure.
Kehena Beach
When the eruption of 1955 created this beautiful black sand beach, the County was swift to capitalize on it and, creating a wonderful beach park, built stone steps down the cliff to the beach. When the beach dropped a full 3 feet during an earthquake in 1975 the stairs were shattered. Like so much else around this island, these stairs were never rebuilt and today terminate about ten feet above the current level of the beach--if you want to get down to the beach, therefore, you must take the dirt path that goes out of the left side of the parking lot. Once on the beach the first thing that may strike you is that many of the locals who frequent this park have forgotten to put on proper beach attire...or any other attire whatsoever, for that matter. The second thing that will strike you is what a lovely, wonderful spot this is. In the shade of palms and ironwood this wonderful beach is generally sunny even when the rest of Puna is rainy. Swimming here is great, but ocean currents are strong and dangerous not far from shore. The locals are friendly but frisky, so don't leave valuables in your car.
Kalapana/Disaster of 1990/End of The Road
In 1990 the goddess Pele determined it was time for some serious housecleaning in Puna. Lava flows from Kilauea's East Rift swarmed down the mountain and engulfed the villages of Royal Gardens, Kaimu and Kalapana, destroying virtually everything. Immolated and buried were a centuries-old fishing village and a world famous black sand beach. The road ends today where the parking lot for Kaimu Black Sand Beach once stood, and is now a thousand yards and more inland. When the lava came, it wiped out not just homes, gardens, crops and material things, it wiped out a way of life and a landscape cherished by generations. Imagine the loss to a community of having the coconut grove by the beach, where for a thousand years the Kahunas had blessed the fishing canoes, not only wiped away and covered with lava, but the landscape altered so permanently and completely that you're no longer even sure where it used to be. The spot where generations of fathers taught their sons to fish by casting nets, gone. The groves where mothers sat with their daughters passing on the arts of weaving along with the family stories, gone. The beach where thousands of young lovers had walked the moonlit surf arm in arm for centuries, and where perhaps not a few babies had also been made, gone beneath 50 feet and more of lava. Everything gone; a landscape, a way of life, an entire culture. It was from a vision of strength, a refusal to let her community die, rather than feelings of loss and desolation, that inspired one local resident to replant and reestablish the area. Not just replant her land, but the entire village. She worked steadily, planting hundreds of sprouted coconut and other palms and encouraging others in her community to join in. Even when she discovered she had a terminal disease, she continued her campaign to replant and recover, the community pitching in even more after she passed away. Today there are literally thousands of young trees growing on the no-longer barren lava, and a new geography for new lives and new memories is being born.
Her vision of rebirth, now being realized, is a moving testament to the power of love of ones' community and commitment to ones' culture. One of the truly most moving stories in the Islands, this place has to be seen to be appreciated. The trail to the new black sand beach, Kaimu Beach, is marked with these young palms. Near the parking area along the path are lava casts of palm trees and other plants...keep a sharp eye out, they are everywhere. Swimming is hazardous at the new beach, so is surfing, the ocean currents being strong and treacherous. But take some time to relax, wade, feel the sand beneath your feet and contemplate the drive of one dying woman to rebuild a world she loved from a devastation few of us can imagine. From the lava hillocks along the trail you can get nice views of the eruption plume at Pu'u O'o, up on the flank of Kilauea as well as the steam clouds down a few miles along the coast where the lava enters the sea. This is one of the few places where both can be seen easily and at the same time. Back at the parking area at the road's end, look a bit farther to the west and find Uncle Robert's House, one that was spared the destruction, where a display of photos of the lava flows and the village in pre-disaster times in a miniature museum can be found, along with an interesting nature trail. The stop is worth your time, and be sure to leave a donation in the offering jar.
Kaimu Black Sand Beach
The state's newest black sand beach, Kaimu Beach, is a lovely if barren crescent of black-as-night sand at the end of an unforgiving expanse of lava from the 1990 flows. The old beach and the fishing village of Kalapana that stood along it are long gone, buried under 50-75 feet of lava-an unimaginable catastrophe. The young palm trees you see growing all along this trail are the result of one woman's commitment not to allow her community, her beach, her culture to die under the lava. Planting thousands of palm sprouts, she encouraged her community, school children state wide and hundreds of others to plant the young trees. Today, the realization of her vision of rebirth is in the growing palm groves out on the barren lava plain. The trail to the new black sand beach is marked with these young palms. Near the parking area along the path are lava casts of palm trees and other plants...keep a sharp eye out, they are everywhere. Swimming is hazardous at the new beach, so is surfing, the ocean currents being strong and treacherous. But take some time to relax, wade, feel the sand beneath your feet and contemplate the drive of one dying woman to rebuild a world she loved from a devastation few of us can imagine. From the lava hillocks along the trail you can get nice views of the eruption plume at Pu'u O'o, up on the flank of Kilauea as well as the steam clouds down a few miles along the coast where the lave enters the sea. This is one of the few places where both can be seen easily and at the same time.
Lava Viewing at Waikupanaha
Nowhere else in the world can you see lava flowing from a volcano into the sea; no Big Island visit is complete without seeing this awe-inspiring show. Currently lava is only flowing into the sea outside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, near a Hawaii County Lava Viewing Station between Kalapana and Waikupanaha. Drive south on Highway 130 through Pahoa toward Kalapana, to the 20 mile marker and take the right branch about two miles to the parking area. Port-a-potties are available here. The road is open from 2 pm. until 10; no cars allowed in after 8. Lava viewing information is available from Hawaii County at 808.961.8093; check conditions before you go. The easy trail, a 20 minute stroll to the viewing area, is well-marked. The viewing varies as lava flows nearer or farther from the trail. Viewing is best at dusk so bring flashlights for the hike out and a tripod for your camera. Take close-toed walking shoes and a hat, long pants and long-sleeved shirt, at least 2 liters of water and sun block and a rain jacket and camera. Remember food and gas are not available after dark, so fill up BEFORE you park, bring snacks and drinks.
Painted Church
Originally this little Catholic Church stood in the village of Kalapana. Built and painted in 1928 by Father John Velge, who also built and painted the Painted Church in Honaunau, it was picked up and moved to avoid the onslaught of lava when Kalapana was destroyed in 1990. Sitting vacant and abandoned by the roadside for years, it was finally moved here, deconsecrated and is now a Hawai'ian Cultural Center. It is very much worth a stop to look at Fr. Velge's masterful murals.
Puna Geothermal Field Natural Steam Rooms
Just what is the view at the scenic turnout along Highway 130 between Kalapana and Pahoa near the 15 mile marker? Turns out, there is no view, but something much, much more unusual and interesting. The Puna Geothermal Field here has numerous, and we're talking hundreds, of small steam vents of varying size and steam output, just a few minutes walk along an obvious trail into the ohia forest from the east side of the road. Some have been enlarged, or had the vegetation cleared from around them or had benches placed in them by local users; others are in a completely wild state. This is a great place to come for a little natural steam bath and, as seems to be the fashion in Puna, it's definitely "clothing optional". Be careful when exploring around here, though...it's generally safe but it is possible to fall into a few of the holes or turn an ankle and the steam is hot. This is so awesomely wild, weird and wonderfully different, it's a "must see"!
Kea'au Town
A small, rural community, Kea'au is growing up to be Hilo's bedroom suburb. There are some points of interest in the Kea'au area, including a great natural foods store, Hi'iaka's Healing Herb Garden, some great small restaurants and a shopping center where travelers can fill-up with gas, food and fast food, but most of Kea'au is rural and suburban, of little interest to visitors with limited time.
From Kea'au one can catch the Belt Road, either west to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, and ultimately Kona, or east to Hilo.
For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general or touring the Big Island in particular, visit http://www.tourguidehawaii.com and http://www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com
Beautiful, mysterious, untraveled and undiscovered by the herds of tourists, Puna District has so far managed to avoid the overcrowding, loss of local flavor and other problems that come with the extreme popularity being experienced by other parts of this island. Puna has a somewhat undeserved reputation that, where not actually violent, dangerous and over-run with drug dealers, it is populated entirely by aging hippies, tree huggers, vegetarians, artists, actors and others of somewhat bohemian life philosophies. It is true, like any area where the median income is below poverty level, that there is a certain amount of crime, back-yard marijuana cultivation and other drug use, along with other undesirable activities going on in Puna, but the same could be said of almost anywhere in America. It is also true that the residents of Puna tend to be individualists, socially liberal, embracing of alternative culture; there are most certainly a lot more musicians, artists and poets in Puna than accountants, insurance agents and attorneys. Also true is the fact that many native Hawai'ians living in Puna regard it as the last bastion of THEIR land and may not be as welcoming as you might hope. However, the rewards of discovering Puna District's secrets are very much worth the extra vigilance and preparation to travel there safely, and the people you meet in Puna are certainly friendly and fascinating. It is truly said that the people of Puna are its greatest treasure.
Puna is a magnificent wonderland; from incredible tree-tunneled roads, geothermal fields of steam vents, lovely beach parks, raw lava flows and jungle trails, the land cries out for the visitor to put their fears aside and explore a little bit. Of course, the visitor is reminded to leave no valuables in the car, even when locked, and to be watchful and careful. But bear in mind that tens of thousands of people happily inhabit Puna without ever actually being beset by bandits. Puna is actually a generally safe place for the heads-up, prepared traveler to explore. As an interesting observation about Puna District, which is itself the same size as the island of Molokai and comprises the rainiest part of the island, is that is has but one lake and no rivers. The District is so young, the volcanic landscape so immature and so porous, that the rain, once it hits the ground, percolates immediately through the surface layers of rock. From there it seeps and flows to the subterranean aquifer--a lens of freshwater saturating the rock pores and which floats upon the seawater saturating the older rocks, formed hundreds of thousands of years ago in the ocean. This phenomenon represents a huge resource of fresh groundwater for agricultural and municipal use, but until the island ages a great deal and more soil is formed from organic debris and weathering of the rocks, there will be few rivers and lakes. Remember, very few visitors ever even see Puna District; even most residents never go here...it's fascinating, beautiful, secluded and very, very much worth spending the time to explore. Let's take a quick trip through Puna, starting in Pahoa Town and going clockwise through the district, ending up at the Hawaii Belt Road at Kea'au.
Pahoa Town
YEEEEEHAW! Wild, untamed and even a bit unruly, Pahoa Town, with it's false-front, western-style buildings and raised wooden sidewalks, looks more like it belongs in Wyoming than Hawai'i. But Wild West isn't the only subculture evident here...tie-dye banners and the general "flower-power" imbuement some businesses and citizens lend Pahoa a decidedly "'60's" feel. It has been said of Pahoa that if it weren't for counter-cultural influences, it would have no cultural influences at all. This is a bit unfair, but the people of Pahoa are proud of their independent ways and lifestyle. The charm and allure of this way of living is evident when you consider that the region around Pahoa is the fastest growing portion of the island. Downtown Pahoa is one of the more interesting three or four blocks of real estate in all of Hawai'i. An eclectic mix of truly fine restaurants, food and clothing stores, second hand stores, Real Estate agents, coffee shops and other oddments and interesting boutiques, all arranged around a downtown area of western-style false-front buildings and raised wooden sidewalks. Saying that the merchandise to be found in the Pahoa Farmer's Market is "varied and unusual" is a vast understatement and grave disservice to the creative genius of Pahoa merchants. The market is open 9-3 on Sundays, located in the middle of downtown Pahoa and is very much worth the effort to see. If parking is not available near the Farmer's Market, a sneaky alternative is to park one block up the hill at the Pahoa Pool and Municipal Park, a very short walk from downtown and the market.
Lava Trees State Monument
Under a fascinating, beautiful, lacy canopy of monkeypod trees, casts of ohia trees stand as monuments to a fast-moving pahoehoe lava flow that passed through here in 1790. When the lava hit the water-saturated ohia trees, it cooled and began to congeal around them; the rest of the flow passed on, or perhaps drained away down the numerous cracks in this area that formed contemporaneously with the flows. Although the original ohia trees burned away, the quickly cooled lava around them stands here today, hollow, with imprints of the tree bark inside, giving testament to their origin. The crack which likely drained the lava away is still visible, just left of the restrooms. Lava Trees Park offers trails to hike and a restful, bird-filled jungle to sit and listen to. You can spend between 20 minutes to an hour wandering the trails, here, exploring and discovering. Be careful, however, the area is riddled with hidden cracks in the ground which can make exploring hazardous. You may wish to avail yourself of the restrooms at Lava Tree State Monument; no matter which direction you have approached the park from, they are the last public facilities for some distance.
Kapoho Village/Disaster of 1960/Puna Geothermal Fields/Virgin Air
A small farming village of perhaps 300 people, Kapoho drowsed into the 20th Century near the modern-day intersections of Highways 132 and 137. On the 13th of January in 1960, a rift eruption half a mile long opened and shot fire fountains 3/10 of a mile into the sky. Burying orchid and papaya farms, the lava advanced on Kapoho, entering the town on the 28th of January and eventually burying as many as 100 homes and businesses. There is a positive, less destructive side to this awesome volcanic energy. The hot rock, deep within the earth, heats ground water. When tapped by drilling and brought to the surface, the release of pressure on the hot fluids causes them to flash to steam, which is then used to turn electricity-generating turbines. On the Island of Hawai'i, the Puna Geothermal Fields generate very nearly a fifth of all the electricity used in the county at facilities quite near here. Here, you are very nearly at the easternmost point of Hawai'i Island; breath deeply. Our winds come from the east, and the air you are now breathing is amongst the most pure in the world. Called "virgin air" it is studied by scientists from all over the world. Interestingly, just a few miles to the west, some of the most dangerously toxic atmosphere in the world exists where the current lava flows from Pu'u O'o vent on Kilauea flow into the sea, filling the air with clouds of microscopic glass shards and aerosols of hydrochloric and sulphuric acids.
Kapoho Tide Pools, or Wai Opae
Stuffed with abundant sea life, this sprawling basin of lava tidal pools is a remarkable treasure for snorkelers of all abilities from the starkly frightened to the seasoned veteran. Moorish idols, yellow tangs, various wrasses and eels, sea urchins and sea cucumbers abound and there is even some nice corals in the deeper pools. The largest pool is called "Wai Opae", which means "fresh water shrimp". Keeping to the left of the main channel keeps one away from most of the ocean currents, which can be surprisingly strong, even in small channels, where ponds empty into the ocean. A wonderful place to spend the day, Kapoho Tide Pools has wonderful snorkeling for people of all levels as well as other general beach activities, including just plain beach exploring, shell collecting, swimming and fishing.
Ahalanui Pond
Also called Pu'ala'a or "Secrets Beach", this spring and ocean-fed, man made pool is a testament to the vagaries of life on an active volcano. The pool was initially constructed as a place to cool off when the springs ran chilly cold. Eruptions in Puna during the '50s and 60's reworked the subterranean waterworks and now the springs run hot and the pool is a comfortably warm 90-95 degrees or so. Deep enough for swimming, the pool has an open connection to the ocean which flushes water and reef fish into the pool at high tide, keeping the water freshened, tolerably warm instead of volcanically hot and the underwater scenery interesting. With the gentle aloha breezes, swaying palms and surf whooshing against the seawall at the pool, it can be really hard to drag oneself out of the hot pool and continue on exploring...that's OK, soak awhile longer. You came to Hawai'i for rest, renewal and relaxation anyway, didn't you? This is a great place to do that. Picnic tables, pavilions, pit barbecues, showers, lawns and all the pleasantries of a civilized park are available at Ahalanui Pond. Leave no valuables in your car and be vigilant if you stay soaking here, after dark.
Isaac Hale Beach Park
A lovely black sand beach with an expert surf break, Isaac Hale Beach Park is one of the very few real beaches and boat ramps in Puna District; as such this park sees a lot of traffic. It is also the site of the best surfing and some of the wildest snorkeling and scuba diving in Puna. If you do get in the ocean here, go in left of the boat ramp-be alert to bodacious boat traffic (they won't be alert for you) and for fairly dangerous ocean currents. Understandably, given the crowded nature of this small place, some locals are less than welcoming of visitors. Graciously share this ocean treasure with the residents, but and leave no valuables in your car. A short path along the shoreline leads from the parking lot, past a house with abundant "No Trespassing" signs, strolls a few minutes then turns about 20 yards into the jungle to a secluded, perfectly lovely natural hot spring that is wonderful for soaking. Locals usually don't bother with swimwear here, you shouldn't feel required to, either. The facilities at Isaac Hale Park are recently rebuilt, refurbished and expanded and comprised of picnic facilities, showers, toilets and a vast new parking lot. Unfortunately, a few fairly nasty port-a-potties remain. Camping is allowed with a County permit.
McKenzie State Recreation Area
Secluded under a canopied ironwood forest and ending at great cliffs against the turbulent open ocean, McKenzie State Recreation Area feels like the End of The World. There's no beach and no running water, but spectacular shore fishing and a wonderful sense of "aloneness" make this a great place to get away from the bustle of Hilo or the fumes of ubiquitous tour buses. As mentioned earlier, Puna is the home of the unusual and here at McKenzie Park are some very unique and curious picnic tables made from slabs of pahoehoe lava. There are also trails that fan out from this 13 acre Recreation Area into the surrounding forest which beg to be explored. You may have noticed the huge boulders that line the shore-cliffs along this stretch of Red Road. These mega-ton rocks were hefted out of the sea by violent tsunami waves. Imagine the power of a wave that could lift a boulder of this size from the bottom of the ocean, hurl it a further forty or so feet to the top of the cliff and deposit it many yards inland. Being here will give you a new appreciation of, if not absolute horror at, the power of tsunamis. Camping at McKenzie State Recreation Area is by State Permit, and except for the decrepit state of the facilities, is a genuine pleasure.
Kehena Beach
When the eruption of 1955 created this beautiful black sand beach, the County was swift to capitalize on it and, creating a wonderful beach park, built stone steps down the cliff to the beach. When the beach dropped a full 3 feet during an earthquake in 1975 the stairs were shattered. Like so much else around this island, these stairs were never rebuilt and today terminate about ten feet above the current level of the beach--if you want to get down to the beach, therefore, you must take the dirt path that goes out of the left side of the parking lot. Once on the beach the first thing that may strike you is that many of the locals who frequent this park have forgotten to put on proper beach attire...or any other attire whatsoever, for that matter. The second thing that will strike you is what a lovely, wonderful spot this is. In the shade of palms and ironwood this wonderful beach is generally sunny even when the rest of Puna is rainy. Swimming here is great, but ocean currents are strong and dangerous not far from shore. The locals are friendly but frisky, so don't leave valuables in your car.
Kalapana/Disaster of 1990/End of The Road
In 1990 the goddess Pele determined it was time for some serious housecleaning in Puna. Lava flows from Kilauea's East Rift swarmed down the mountain and engulfed the villages of Royal Gardens, Kaimu and Kalapana, destroying virtually everything. Immolated and buried were a centuries-old fishing village and a world famous black sand beach. The road ends today where the parking lot for Kaimu Black Sand Beach once stood, and is now a thousand yards and more inland. When the lava came, it wiped out not just homes, gardens, crops and material things, it wiped out a way of life and a landscape cherished by generations. Imagine the loss to a community of having the coconut grove by the beach, where for a thousand years the Kahunas had blessed the fishing canoes, not only wiped away and covered with lava, but the landscape altered so permanently and completely that you're no longer even sure where it used to be. The spot where generations of fathers taught their sons to fish by casting nets, gone. The groves where mothers sat with their daughters passing on the arts of weaving along with the family stories, gone. The beach where thousands of young lovers had walked the moonlit surf arm in arm for centuries, and where perhaps not a few babies had also been made, gone beneath 50 feet and more of lava. Everything gone; a landscape, a way of life, an entire culture. It was from a vision of strength, a refusal to let her community die, rather than feelings of loss and desolation, that inspired one local resident to replant and reestablish the area. Not just replant her land, but the entire village. She worked steadily, planting hundreds of sprouted coconut and other palms and encouraging others in her community to join in. Even when she discovered she had a terminal disease, she continued her campaign to replant and recover, the community pitching in even more after she passed away. Today there are literally thousands of young trees growing on the no-longer barren lava, and a new geography for new lives and new memories is being born.
Her vision of rebirth, now being realized, is a moving testament to the power of love of ones' community and commitment to ones' culture. One of the truly most moving stories in the Islands, this place has to be seen to be appreciated. The trail to the new black sand beach, Kaimu Beach, is marked with these young palms. Near the parking area along the path are lava casts of palm trees and other plants...keep a sharp eye out, they are everywhere. Swimming is hazardous at the new beach, so is surfing, the ocean currents being strong and treacherous. But take some time to relax, wade, feel the sand beneath your feet and contemplate the drive of one dying woman to rebuild a world she loved from a devastation few of us can imagine. From the lava hillocks along the trail you can get nice views of the eruption plume at Pu'u O'o, up on the flank of Kilauea as well as the steam clouds down a few miles along the coast where the lava enters the sea. This is one of the few places where both can be seen easily and at the same time. Back at the parking area at the road's end, look a bit farther to the west and find Uncle Robert's House, one that was spared the destruction, where a display of photos of the lava flows and the village in pre-disaster times in a miniature museum can be found, along with an interesting nature trail. The stop is worth your time, and be sure to leave a donation in the offering jar.
Kaimu Black Sand Beach
The state's newest black sand beach, Kaimu Beach, is a lovely if barren crescent of black-as-night sand at the end of an unforgiving expanse of lava from the 1990 flows. The old beach and the fishing village of Kalapana that stood along it are long gone, buried under 50-75 feet of lava-an unimaginable catastrophe. The young palm trees you see growing all along this trail are the result of one woman's commitment not to allow her community, her beach, her culture to die under the lava. Planting thousands of palm sprouts, she encouraged her community, school children state wide and hundreds of others to plant the young trees. Today, the realization of her vision of rebirth is in the growing palm groves out on the barren lava plain. The trail to the new black sand beach is marked with these young palms. Near the parking area along the path are lava casts of palm trees and other plants...keep a sharp eye out, they are everywhere. Swimming is hazardous at the new beach, so is surfing, the ocean currents being strong and treacherous. But take some time to relax, wade, feel the sand beneath your feet and contemplate the drive of one dying woman to rebuild a world she loved from a devastation few of us can imagine. From the lava hillocks along the trail you can get nice views of the eruption plume at Pu'u O'o, up on the flank of Kilauea as well as the steam clouds down a few miles along the coast where the lave enters the sea. This is one of the few places where both can be seen easily and at the same time.
Lava Viewing at Waikupanaha
Nowhere else in the world can you see lava flowing from a volcano into the sea; no Big Island visit is complete without seeing this awe-inspiring show. Currently lava is only flowing into the sea outside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, near a Hawaii County Lava Viewing Station between Kalapana and Waikupanaha. Drive south on Highway 130 through Pahoa toward Kalapana, to the 20 mile marker and take the right branch about two miles to the parking area. Port-a-potties are available here. The road is open from 2 pm. until 10; no cars allowed in after 8. Lava viewing information is available from Hawaii County at 808.961.8093; check conditions before you go. The easy trail, a 20 minute stroll to the viewing area, is well-marked. The viewing varies as lava flows nearer or farther from the trail. Viewing is best at dusk so bring flashlights for the hike out and a tripod for your camera. Take close-toed walking shoes and a hat, long pants and long-sleeved shirt, at least 2 liters of water and sun block and a rain jacket and camera. Remember food and gas are not available after dark, so fill up BEFORE you park, bring snacks and drinks.
Painted Church
Originally this little Catholic Church stood in the village of Kalapana. Built and painted in 1928 by Father John Velge, who also built and painted the Painted Church in Honaunau, it was picked up and moved to avoid the onslaught of lava when Kalapana was destroyed in 1990. Sitting vacant and abandoned by the roadside for years, it was finally moved here, deconsecrated and is now a Hawai'ian Cultural Center. It is very much worth a stop to look at Fr. Velge's masterful murals.
Puna Geothermal Field Natural Steam Rooms
Just what is the view at the scenic turnout along Highway 130 between Kalapana and Pahoa near the 15 mile marker? Turns out, there is no view, but something much, much more unusual and interesting. The Puna Geothermal Field here has numerous, and we're talking hundreds, of small steam vents of varying size and steam output, just a few minutes walk along an obvious trail into the ohia forest from the east side of the road. Some have been enlarged, or had the vegetation cleared from around them or had benches placed in them by local users; others are in a completely wild state. This is a great place to come for a little natural steam bath and, as seems to be the fashion in Puna, it's definitely "clothing optional". Be careful when exploring around here, though...it's generally safe but it is possible to fall into a few of the holes or turn an ankle and the steam is hot. This is so awesomely wild, weird and wonderfully different, it's a "must see"!
Kea'au Town
A small, rural community, Kea'au is growing up to be Hilo's bedroom suburb. There are some points of interest in the Kea'au area, including a great natural foods store, Hi'iaka's Healing Herb Garden, some great small restaurants and a shopping center where travelers can fill-up with gas, food and fast food, but most of Kea'au is rural and suburban, of little interest to visitors with limited time.
From Kea'au one can catch the Belt Road, either west to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, and ultimately Kona, or east to Hilo.
For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general or touring the Big Island in particular, visit http://www.tourguidehawaii.com and http://www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com
Monday, December 15, 2008
What Do I Do on the Big Island? Visit the Beautiful Waterfall Parks of Windward Hawaii
Reprinted from here.
The windward side of Hawaii Island is famous for its numerous, beautiful waterfalls. Flying into Hilo on rainy day, one is presented with the incredible vision of an island seeming brimming with waterfalls, spuming off from every declivity, crack and canyon in the beach cliffs. Many of these waterfalls are inaccessible, or available for view only by paying admission, but three of the loveliest are located in public parks, either within the city limits of Hilo, or with an easy drive from town.
Rainbow Falls
The subject of recent and ancient legend, Rainbow Falls is the lovely emblem of Hilo town. Located in the Wailuku River Park along Rainbow Drive off of Waianuenue Avenue in Hilo Town, Rainbow falls is easily visited by car, public transportation or foot from town. The cave beneath Rainbow Falls is said to have been the home of Hina, mother of the demigod Maui, who brought fire to mankind. It is also said to be the place where Kamehameha buried his father's bones. The characteristic wishbone shape of Rainbow falls is best seen at moderate river flows...too little water and only a single drizzle remains, too much runoff and the falls merge into a single, roaring flume. At any time, however, it's a beautiful place and worthwhile to visit. Waianuenue in Hawai'ian means "rainbow in waterfall", and just about every village in Hawai'i large enough to have paved roads, has a "Waianuenue Street". This particular waterfall was called "Waianuenue" by the ancient Hawai'ians, and remains the reigning queen of its namesake. A remarkable and lovely waterfall, the rainbows within it, which are the emblem of the state of Hawai'i, are best seen in the mid to late morning. Follow the trail to the left along the river bank to delightful swimming and wandering; please note, however, that swimming in rivers and near falling water is dangerous. Don't go in if the current is swift or if recent rains have swollen the river.
Boiling Pots and Pe'epe'e Falls
Wild swimming, a jungle of ferns and blossoms, A wild waterfall surrounded by forest solitude and a raging river, all within a few miles of downtown Hilo, Boiling Pots and Pe'epe'e Falls are located in the Wailuku River Park just mauka (uphill) of Rainbow Falls. Boiling pots is a short section of rapids in the Wailuku River between Pe'epe'e Falls and Rainbow Falls that is popular with locals for swimming, cliff diving and body surfing the rapids. Set in an emerald jungle canyon, the river is an open invitation to cool off for visitors who may be unaccustomed to Hilo's climate of fierce heat and unrelenting humidity. If swimming is in your plans, however, be very, very careful; conditions at Boiling Pots are not as benign as they seem and can change instantly with a minor cloudburst miles upstream, that you won't ever know about until the river fills to flood stage. Follow the dirt path past the "No Swimming" signs down into the canyon for access to the swimming holes. There are also many flat rocks you can lie out on and absorb that wonderful Hawai'i sunshine if the swimming is not inviting. If sight seeing, and not swimming, is your agenda, content yourself with a walk to the scenic overlook, from which the boiling pots and Pe'epe'e Falls can be seen. In low water conditions, it is possible to hike up-river and over to Pe'epe'e Falls for some guaranteed solitude and fairly untraveled vistas. Otherwise, Pe'epe'e Falls can be found by following roads along the Wailuku River to the last bridge above Boiling Pots; the falls are easily visible from the bridge and the hike is mercifully short and easy-although a haven for mosquitoes.
Akaka Falls
There is a reason that Akaka Falls rates as the most visited tourist site on the island of Hawai'i. Simply put, the 420 foot, free falling plunge of clear water down a fern festooned cliff is an amazing and beautiful site. Leaving the parking lot, the loop trail immediately splits. Going left through fern, ginger, impatiens and bamboo, one reaches Akaka Falls in 5-8 minutes of ambling. If you turn right, the trail loops up and down some hills, through a wonderful jungle of flowers, ferns, heliconia, palms and bamboo to 100 foot tall Kahuna Falls in about 15 minutes of walking; Akaka Falls is then reached by following the same path another 5 minutes and 5-8 minutes after that you are back at the parking lot. If you are lucky, and approach Akaka Falls on a sunny morning when the sun shines into to grotto, you may be blessed with seeing rainbows in the falls, or waianuenue, the lovely icon of Hawaii. When visiting Akaka Falls, be sure to save some time to explore the shops, galleries and cafes in the town of Honomu on the way back to the highway; it's unlike anywhere you've ever been before...guaranteed; old Hawaii with a modern flair.
For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general or touring the Big Island in particular, visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com.
The windward side of Hawaii Island is famous for its numerous, beautiful waterfalls. Flying into Hilo on rainy day, one is presented with the incredible vision of an island seeming brimming with waterfalls, spuming off from every declivity, crack and canyon in the beach cliffs. Many of these waterfalls are inaccessible, or available for view only by paying admission, but three of the loveliest are located in public parks, either within the city limits of Hilo, or with an easy drive from town.
Rainbow Falls
The subject of recent and ancient legend, Rainbow Falls is the lovely emblem of Hilo town. Located in the Wailuku River Park along Rainbow Drive off of Waianuenue Avenue in Hilo Town, Rainbow falls is easily visited by car, public transportation or foot from town. The cave beneath Rainbow Falls is said to have been the home of Hina, mother of the demigod Maui, who brought fire to mankind. It is also said to be the place where Kamehameha buried his father's bones. The characteristic wishbone shape of Rainbow falls is best seen at moderate river flows...too little water and only a single drizzle remains, too much runoff and the falls merge into a single, roaring flume. At any time, however, it's a beautiful place and worthwhile to visit. Waianuenue in Hawai'ian means "rainbow in waterfall", and just about every village in Hawai'i large enough to have paved roads, has a "Waianuenue Street". This particular waterfall was called "Waianuenue" by the ancient Hawai'ians, and remains the reigning queen of its namesake. A remarkable and lovely waterfall, the rainbows within it, which are the emblem of the state of Hawai'i, are best seen in the mid to late morning. Follow the trail to the left along the river bank to delightful swimming and wandering; please note, however, that swimming in rivers and near falling water is dangerous. Don't go in if the current is swift or if recent rains have swollen the river.
Boiling Pots and Pe'epe'e Falls
Wild swimming, a jungle of ferns and blossoms, A wild waterfall surrounded by forest solitude and a raging river, all within a few miles of downtown Hilo, Boiling Pots and Pe'epe'e Falls are located in the Wailuku River Park just mauka (uphill) of Rainbow Falls. Boiling pots is a short section of rapids in the Wailuku River between Pe'epe'e Falls and Rainbow Falls that is popular with locals for swimming, cliff diving and body surfing the rapids. Set in an emerald jungle canyon, the river is an open invitation to cool off for visitors who may be unaccustomed to Hilo's climate of fierce heat and unrelenting humidity. If swimming is in your plans, however, be very, very careful; conditions at Boiling Pots are not as benign as they seem and can change instantly with a minor cloudburst miles upstream, that you won't ever know about until the river fills to flood stage. Follow the dirt path past the "No Swimming" signs down into the canyon for access to the swimming holes. There are also many flat rocks you can lie out on and absorb that wonderful Hawai'i sunshine if the swimming is not inviting. If sight seeing, and not swimming, is your agenda, content yourself with a walk to the scenic overlook, from which the boiling pots and Pe'epe'e Falls can be seen. In low water conditions, it is possible to hike up-river and over to Pe'epe'e Falls for some guaranteed solitude and fairly untraveled vistas. Otherwise, Pe'epe'e Falls can be found by following roads along the Wailuku River to the last bridge above Boiling Pots; the falls are easily visible from the bridge and the hike is mercifully short and easy-although a haven for mosquitoes.
Akaka Falls
There is a reason that Akaka Falls rates as the most visited tourist site on the island of Hawai'i. Simply put, the 420 foot, free falling plunge of clear water down a fern festooned cliff is an amazing and beautiful site. Leaving the parking lot, the loop trail immediately splits. Going left through fern, ginger, impatiens and bamboo, one reaches Akaka Falls in 5-8 minutes of ambling. If you turn right, the trail loops up and down some hills, through a wonderful jungle of flowers, ferns, heliconia, palms and bamboo to 100 foot tall Kahuna Falls in about 15 minutes of walking; Akaka Falls is then reached by following the same path another 5 minutes and 5-8 minutes after that you are back at the parking lot. If you are lucky, and approach Akaka Falls on a sunny morning when the sun shines into to grotto, you may be blessed with seeing rainbows in the falls, or waianuenue, the lovely icon of Hawaii. When visiting Akaka Falls, be sure to save some time to explore the shops, galleries and cafes in the town of Honomu on the way back to the highway; it's unlike anywhere you've ever been before...guaranteed; old Hawaii with a modern flair.
For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general or touring the Big Island in particular, visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com.
About the Author
Popular television personality and award-winning independent filmmaker Dr. Donald B. MacGowan originally pursued a career in academics, earning two B.Sc. degrees, a dual M.Sc., and a PhD.; co-authoring over 5.2 million dollars in grants, and publishing more than 200 refereed journal articles, abstracts, etc. Seeking sanity and escape, he quit the academic rat race and began to live. Donnie is an accomplished, prolific alpinist, having climbed on 5 of the seven continents, putting up more than 150 first ascents on rock, ice and snow, and a dozen first ski descents. He has written, directed and produced short and feature length films on health, travel, mountaineering and life in a touring rock band. Donnie records and tours relentlessly with his Celtic Punk fusion band "Fatal Loins"--although nobody much seems to care for their music. A Hawaii resident since 2000, he quietly and humbly inhabits Kailua Kona, doing environmental good works, surfing the be-jeezis out of the local waves and frenetically producing somewhat bizarre and mildly disturbing programs for local television which have recently been lauded as: "Ignorant", "Arrogant" and "Totally Insane". You may say what you wish about him, Donnie does not care. For somewhere underneath those swaying palm trees, in those warm aloha breezes, he is far too busy praying for good surf to hear you...
Popular television personality and award-winning independent filmmaker Dr. Donald B. MacGowan originally pursued a career in academics, earning two B.Sc. degrees, a dual M.Sc., and a PhD.; co-authoring over 5.2 million dollars in grants, and publishing more than 200 refereed journal articles, abstracts, etc. Seeking sanity and escape, he quit the academic rat race and began to live. Donnie is an accomplished, prolific alpinist, having climbed on 5 of the seven continents, putting up more than 150 first ascents on rock, ice and snow, and a dozen first ski descents. He has written, directed and produced short and feature length films on health, travel, mountaineering and life in a touring rock band. Donnie records and tours relentlessly with his Celtic Punk fusion band "Fatal Loins"--although nobody much seems to care for their music. A Hawaii resident since 2000, he quietly and humbly inhabits Kailua Kona, doing environmental good works, surfing the be-jeezis out of the local waves and frenetically producing somewhat bizarre and mildly disturbing programs for local television which have recently been lauded as: "Ignorant", "Arrogant" and "Totally Insane". You may say what you wish about him, Donnie does not care. For somewhere underneath those swaying palm trees, in those warm aloha breezes, he is far too busy praying for good surf to hear you...
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