Volcano Watch: Where did the rest of the rocks go? More went down than up ...

Reprinted from here.

Now that the 2008 Halema`uma`u eruption has ended (or is in repose), the total volume of solid material (tephra) thrown out from the new vent can be estimated. This volume, though tiny, is interesting, for it bears on the origin of the vent itself.

Calculation of the volume is complicated, however. We did it in two parts, one for the 8 explosive eruptions (March 19, April 9 and 16, August 1 and 27, September 2, and October 12 and 14) and the other for the nearly continuous ejection of tephra between those events. Each approach first calculates the mass (weight) of the ejecta, from which the volume can be determined.

We used a mathematical model, developed 20 years ago for eruptions hundreds of times larger than ours, to estimate the weight of tephra ejected during the 8 explosive eruptions. For each one, we weighed all the tephra that landed in 10 or more small areas, each generally 1 square meter (10.8 square feet) or less. Weights from these areas were then fed into the model to calculate the total weight of all the tephra erupted. The volume can be calculated by knowing the density of the tephra. A weight of 1,000 kg (2,200 pounds) is approximately equivalent to a volume of 1 cubic meter (1.3 cubic yards).

The largest explosive eruption, on September 2, produced 800 cubic meters (1,050 cubic yards), about the volume of the display section of the Jaggar Museum. The smallest, on October 14, ejected about 7 cubic meters (9 cubic yards), about half of a modest bathroom with shower. The total volume ejected by all 8 explosive eruptions is about 1,640 cubic meters (2,150 cubic yards).

These were tiny events! For comparison, the volume of ejecta in the largest lava fountain of the 1959 Kīlauea Iki eruption was about 400 times the volume of the September 2 eruption. The two largest known explosive eruptions from Kīlauea, about 1200 and 400 years ago, each had a volume more than 25,000 times that of the September 2 event.

The volume of the nearly continuous tephra fall between the 8 main events was calculated from the weights that fell into 10 plastic buckets on the ground between the vent and the parking lot. Each morning, the contents of the buckets were weighed. For several days, we calculated an average ratio between the weight in the buckets and the total weight of the deposit by using the tedious mathematical model. Using this ratio, we could calculate the deposit weight from the daily collections. A volume was estimated from that weight. The volume ejected between the explosive eruptions is only about 300 cubic meters (390 cubic yards), 18 percent of the volume erupted by those much larger events.

The total volume of ejecta from the 2008 eruption is about 1,940 cubic meters (2,540 cubic yards), about three times the volume of the Jaggar Museum display area.

The tephra consists of two different materials. One, derived from the lava itself, is called juvenile; Pele's tears and spatter are examples. The other, broken from older rocks exposed in the walls of the vent, is called lithic. Ongoing studies show about equal amounts of juvenile and lithic tephra in the deposits, about 970 cubic meters (1,270 cubic yards) each.

Now the fun begins. The volume of the crater created at the vent is 200,000-300,000 cubic meters (260,000-390,000 cubic yards), but the volume of the lithic ejecta is only 970 cubic meters (1,270 cubic yards), a discrepancy of 200-300 times! Clearly, most of the rocks removed to form the vent crater must have collapsed into the underground rather than being tossed onto the ground surface.

What did the rocks collapse into? Was it a cavity, did they fall onto a "conveyor belt" that carried them away, or what?

Underground voids are anathema to many geologists. But, limestone caves exist to depths of 2.2 km (7,200 ft), and deep mines go down to nearly 3.5 km (11,500 ft). Why couldn't temporary cavities a few hundred meters deep exist in Kīlauea? The deep mines are engineered, but Nature is a better engineer than Homo sapiens.

Pit craters, as along the Chain of Craters, are thought to form by collapse into a void. Perhaps we have witnessed the formation of a small pit crater, twice the diameter of Devil's Throat, without realizing it.

For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general and touring the Big Island in particular, please visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and here.

Activity update

Kīlauea Volcano continues to be active. A vent in Halema`uma`u Crater is emitting elevated amounts of sulfur dioxide gas but producing no ash. Resulting high concentrations of sulfur dioxide in downwind air have closed the south part of Kīlauea caldera and produced occasional air quality alerts in more distant areas, such as Pahala and communities adjacent to Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park, during kona wind periods.

Pu`u `Ō`ō continues to produce sulfur dioxide at even higher rates than the vent in Halema`uma`u Crater. Trade winds tend to pool these emissions along the West Hawai`i coast, while Kona winds blow these emissions into communities to the north, such as Mountain View, Volcano, and Hilo.

Lava erupting from the Thanksgiving Eve Breakout (TEB) vent at the eastern base of Pu'u 'O'o continues to flow to the ocean at Waikupanaha through a well-established lava tube. Beakouts from the lava tube were active in the Royal Gardens subdivision and on the coastal plain in the past week. Ocean entry activity has continued throughout the past week, with a minor short-term reduction in activity following a deflation-inflation cycle on December 31-January 1.

Be aware that active lava deltas can collapse at any time, potentially generating large explosions. This may be especially true during times of rapidly changing lava supply conditions. The Waikupanaha delta has collapsed many times over the last several months, with three of the collapses resulting in rock blasts that tossed television-sized rocks up onto the sea-cliff and threw fist-sized rocks more than 200 yards inland.

Do not approach the ocean entry or venture onto the lava deltas. Even the intervening beaches are susceptible to large waves generated during delta collapse; avoid these beaches. In addition, steam plumes rising from ocean entries are highly acidic and laced with glass particles. Call Hawai`i County Civil Defense at 961-8093 for viewing hours.

Mauna Loa is not erupting. Six earthquakes were located beneath the summit this past week. Continuing extension between locations spanning the summit indicates slow inflation of the volcano, combined with slow eastward slippage of its east flank.

Two earthquakes beneath Hawai`i Island were reported felt within the past week. A magnitude-2.8 earthquake occurred at 5:53 a.m., H.s.t., on Monday, January 5, 2009, and was located 5 km (3 miles) northeast of Na`alehu at a depth of 12 km (8 miles). A magnitude-2.1 earthquake occurred at 1:17 p.m. on Wednesday, January 7, and was located 8 km (5 miles) northeast of Waiki`i at a depth of 14 km (9 miles).

Visit our Web site (http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov) for daily Kīlauea eruption updates, a summary of volcanic events over the past year, and nearly real-time Hawai`i earthquake information. Kīlauea daily update summaries are also available by phone at (808) 967-8862. Questions can be emailed to askHVO@usgs.gov.

Kalapana, Hawaii: From the Fires of Hades to the Eden of Rebirth

Kaimu Black Sand Beach at Kalapana, Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan


By Donald B. MacGowan

On the southeast coast of the Big Island of Hawaii runs the Kapoho-Kalapana Highway, perhaps the only road in the world named for two cities that have been buried by volcanic eruptions. Before the destruction of these towns, this area harbored some of the last refuges of the native Hawaiian way of life--it was a safe haven from the ravages, temptations and noisome encroachments of western civilization. Here were villages of Hawaiians, living as they have for hundreds of years, fishing, farming and keeping their culture, their way of life, their people, alive and vital.

But life on an active volcano is uncertain. Life on an island with 3 active volcanoes, as Hawaii has, is perilous. And for this particular corner of Hawaiian paradise, Madame Pele, the Goddess of the Volcano, began to have other ideas.

In 1990 Pele determined it was time for some serious geographical reorganization. Lava flows from Kilauea’s East Rift swarmed down the mountain and engulfed the villages of Royal Gardens, Kaimu and Kalapana, destroying virtually everything. Immolated and buried were centuries-old fishing villages and a world famous black sand beach. The road ends today where Kaimu Black Sand Beach once stood, and is now a thousand yards and more inland.

When the lava came, it wiped out not just homes, gardens, crops and material things, it wiped out a way of life and a landscape cherished by generations. Imagine the staggering losses to the community. The coconut grove by the beach where, for a thousand years, the Kahunas had blessed the fishing canoes, was not only wiped away and covered with lava, but the landscape was altered so permanently and completely that none are even sure where it used to be. The spots where generations of fathers taught their sons to fish, gone. The groves where mothers sat with their daughters passing on the arts of weaving along with the family stories, gone. The beach where thousands of young lovers had walked the moonlit surf, arm in arm, for centuries, and where perhaps not a few babies had also been made, gone beneath 50 feet and more of lava. Everything gone; a landscape, a way of life, an entire culture.

It was from her vision of strength and a refusal to let her community die, rather than feelings of loss and desolation, that inspired one local resident to replant and reestablish the area. Not to just replant her land, but the entire village. Inspired, tirelessly, steadily, she worked planting hundreds, then thousands, of sprouted coconut and other palms and encouraged others in her community to join in. Even when she discovered she had a terminal disease, she selflessly redoubled her efforts, continuing her campaign to replant and recover the village, the community pitching in even more after she passed away.

Today there are literally thousands of young trees growing on the no-longer barren lava, and a new geography for new lives and new memories is being born. Her vision of rebirth, now being realized, is a moving testament to the power of love of ones’ community and commitment to ones’ culture. This living vision of young palm trees is an amazing, enduring monument to her optimism, faith and perseverance, and to that of her community. One of the truly most moving stories in the Islands, this place has to be seen to be appreciated.

When you visit Kalapana today, the devastation of 20 years ago is still obvious, but so is the vision of rebirth. Although none are yet as tall as a man, the rebuilt trail to the new black sand beach, Kaimu Beach, is lined with the young palms. You should take time to wander out to the beach, over the acres of new land, and look back at where the village of Kalapana once stood. Near the parking area along the path are fossils, lava casts, of palm trees, coconuts, pandanas fruit and other plants…keep a sharp eye out, they are everywhere. Swimming is hazardous at the new beach, so is surfing, the ocean currents being strong and treacherous. But take some time to relax, wade, feel the sand beneath your feet and amidst the lunar desolation of the fresh lava flows, contemplate the drive of one dying woman to rebuild a world she loved from a devastation few of us can imagine.

From the lava hillocks along the trail you can get nice views of the eruption plume at Pu’u O’o, up on the flank of Kilauea as well as the steam clouds down a few miles along the coast where the lave enters the sea at Waikupanaha. This is one of the few places where both can be seen easily and at the same time.

Back at the parking area at the road’s end, look a bit farther to the west and find Uncle Robert’s House, one that was spared the destruction, where a display of photos of the lava flows and the village in pre-disaster times in a miniature museum can be found, along with an interesting nature trail. The stop is worth your time, and be sure to leave a donation in the offering jar.

The extreme devastation suffered by the people of Kalapana may be a long way from our own life experiences, but we should take inspiration and example from their vision, their optimistic perseverance and their deep love of, and commitment to, their way of life.

Frank's Big Island Travel Hints # 7: Around Hilo

Hilo Side: Akaka Falls to Panaewa Rainforest Zoo

On your way back to the highway from Akaka Falls, stop in Honomu for some local-style shopping and a snack. Handmade curios and ice creams will delight your senses. Once back on Highway 19, turn right toward Hilo, about 10 minutes away.

Hilo is one of the wettest cities in the U.S. averaging around 200 inches per year. This old-style Hawaii town is quaint and bustling. Lots of great shops line the waterfront drive and the largest farmer’s market on the island is situated there as well. Tour Guide will take you right into the heart of town and give you history and attractions, such as the Pacific Tsunami Museum, and the Imiloa Astronomy Center at the University of Hawaii, Hilo Campus. A little farther along the coast are some beautiful beach parks like Richardson and Onekahakaha. Great picnicking, swimming and some good snorkeling can be found here. The Suisan Fish Market is famous for the early morning old-style fish auction. Be sure to take your time in Hilo as the shopping food options are immense.

In Hilo, you will turn north onto Highway. 11 at the intersection near Ken’s Pancake House, a landmark eatery. You will see the airport and Prince Kuhio Plaza on your way out of town. Stop in and visit the mall and shop and eat if you missed it in town. Just a few miles north of the mall is the Panaewa Rainforest Zoo. Tour Guide will tell you how this is the only rainforest zoo in the United States of America. It is also free.

Super Tip: Gasoline in Hilo is typically 6-10 cents per gallon cheaper because it is the main port on the island. It is wise to fill up before heading back to Kona.

This completes this drive day. I suggest returning north through Hilo and back up the Hamakua Coast, through Waimea, and Highway 190 back to Kona.

For further information, visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and here.

Birth of a Humpack Whale, Kohala HI: a Donnie MacGowan Film

Aloha...I'm Donnie MacGowan...I live on the island of Hawaii, in the County of Hawaii in the state of Hawaii...I love living in Hawaii, full of wonderful, amazing and fabulous things. For instance today, I saw a Humpback whale being born.

Winter and early spring in Hawaii are especially magical times—well, more magical even than usual in Hawaii. Starting about mid-November and lasting through April, Humpback whales visit our islands. From as far as way as Alaska and as near as California, the Humpies, as we call them, arrive to breed and, cows that bred last year, give birth this year.

An adult humpback weighs approximately one ton per foot, up to 90,000 pounds and can grow over 50 feet in length. Females are slightly larger than the males. Calves range from 10-16 feet in length at birth and weigh an average of 3000 pounds. Marine biologists believe that humpbacks live between 40-60 years.

And every year they come to visit me in my home.

On the West Hawaii coastline there is a place, and no, I'm not going to tell you where, where humpies are known to go to give birth—it's a deep, protected cove quite near the highway. My hiking buddy and I were returning from a trip into the Kohala Mountains when we noticed several cars pulled off the road at a spot overlooking this cove. And there they were...mother and baby, still attached by umbilical cord. The video, shot hastily and without a tripod is not great, but you can see the baby playing on it's back, nuzzling it's mothers teats and just generally reveling at being free and in the marvelous ocean.

I love being in the ocean...it is my place of peace, calm and meditation. But just try to imagine the joy that this baby whale felt, being born into that vast, magical and beautiful realm. Aloha baby humpy...travel safely and come back to us next year.

For more information go to www.tourguidehawaii.com or www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com.

Eruption! Viewing lava at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Written directed and produced by Donald B. MacGowan; Narrated by Frank Burgess; Original Musical Score by Donald B. MacGowan

Can you believe this? It's absolutely outstanding and amazing! You can actually walk right up to flowing lava here; see a volcano erupt before your eyes and the molten rock pour into the sea. This has to be one of the four or five most exciting, amazing, wonderful, mystical experiences on earth...you must not miss this!

Mauna Loa is active but not currently erupting. The summit area is slowly inflating, filling with magma and the flanks are subject to frequent minor earthquakes, but no obvious activity is apparent to the visitor. Kilauea, the most active volcano on Earth, started its current eruptive phase in 1983, the longest eruption in history. Since then it has ejected almost 3 billion cubic meters of lava. Flowing from various vents in the rift, most notably Pu'u O'o, in streams and tubes at over 1000 degrees Celsius, much of the lava makes its way into the sea in fiery, steamy explosions or the incredible incongruity of glowing hot lava pouring directly into the sea with little more apparent than a mere bubbling of the water.

Although surface flows and breakouts are frequent and common, there is no guarantee that over any given trip to the Big Island they will be visible or easily accessible to the casual visitor. Since the flow of lava over the moonscape plains and into the roiling sea can be seen nowhere else on earth, it is certainly the most exciting, unique and moving highlight of any trip to Hawai'i. People stand at the edge of the flow and weep at the majesty and mystery of the earth remaking itself; it is wondrous, remarkable and unforgettable. Before planning a hike to see the lava, check with the Rangers at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park for information on the hike length and location of surface flows and a review of safety information.

The lava seems to glow with only a dull petulance during the day and may be less than inspiring until nightfall brings it alive and the madly glowing, fiery goddess within is revealed. Thus knowledgeable hikers plan their hike to commence in the afternoon, reaching their destination at dusk, and to hike back in the dark. The lava streams and tubes migrate back and forth from time to time over a pali and plain of about 8 miles breadth. Sometimes the hike is a few hundred meters, sometimes a few miles, but it is always over an uneven, rough surface, hot during the day even when it rains, cold at night and navigation can sometimes be counterintuitive. The trail at first is marked with cairns and reflectors, but after the viewpoint overlook at a few hundred meters, you are on your own to navigate the basalt wilderness. Take at least 3 quarts of water for each person and two working (check before you leave!) flashlights per person. It is further recommended that you carry sunscreen, snacks, a first aid kit (that rock is SHARP, cuts are common) and wear sturdy hiking boots and long pants. Remember that you are hiking on a highly active volcano, if flowing streams of lava strand you, no rescue is practical or possible; plan, take care and pay strict attention accordingly.

For more information on viewing the lava, visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com.

Maka O Hule Point: Navigational Heiau at Mahukona Point

Near mile marker 15 on the Akoni Pule Highway is a unique navigational heiau of standing stones arranged to point to Tahiti and the other Polynesian islands.

Sometimes referred to as "the Stonehenge of Hawaii", this one of a kind temple is reached via a short, easy stroll long the dirt road leading north, away from Mahukona Beach Park on the Kohala Coastline. Lovely vistas along deep, cerulean and clear coves lead to a short scramble up an obvious dirt trail to the heiau.

Among the stones, one can sense the reverence and wonder of the Hawaiians as they initiated their novice navigators in this sacred spot of stones pointing along unbroken vistas to Tahiti, the Marquesas and the other Southern Islands. This is a spot for contemplation and awe. Wonderful and startling sunset photos with the stones in the foreground can be taken here, but be respectful and do not walk within the temple precincts.

This heiau is most easily accessed from Mahukona Beach Park, although one can also hike down from the makai, or ocean side of the Akoni Pule Highway near mile marker 15.

For further information, visit www.tourguidehawaii.com, www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com.

Frank's Big Island Travel Hints #6: Waimea and the Hamakua Coast

For a third day of driving, it’s time to explore the east side of the Big Island. Hilo is known to be one of the wettest cities in the U.S and tropical rainforest extends from the Puna district, south of Hilo, all the way to the northern tip of the island. Here, Tour Guide will show you the favorite sights and the out-of-the-way places as well.

Super tip: For this leg of your tour you should bring some rain gear. Umbrellas or panchos are the easiest ways to get a little protection. It tends to rain off and on throughout to day on the east side.

Leaving Kona, take Hwy 190 up the mountain for some panoramic views of the Kohala Coast. It’s about a 45 minute drive to Waimea, which is a good place to stop for breakfast or at the grocery store if you haven’t stocked your cooler already. Tour Guide will have all the info on museums, an arboretum as well as shopping and up-country activities in Waimea. Here you’ll also connect to Hwy 19.

Continue on Hwy 19 north and view the scenic rolling pasturelands of the Parker Ranch, one of the largest privately owned ranches in the U.S. About 20 minutes drive brings you to the town of Honoka’a. Turning left, and going through town, you’ll find more great shops, antique stores and restaurants. Nine miles on Hwy 240 brings you to Waipi’o Valley. This is one of the most photographed areas in the state. This 20 mile stretch between Waipi’o and Pololu is often called “Hawaii untouched”, boasting the largest waterfalls in the state, but can only be viewed by air tours or multi-day hikes. Tour Guide will tell you why this area was sacred to the ancient Hawaiians. You can also find out about air tours in Tour Guide’s activities section.

Head back toward Honoka'a Hwy 19 and turn southbound toward Hilo along the Hamakua Coast. This area was once all sugar cane fields but now many diversified agricultural crops are grown here. The first crop you will see is eucalyptus. Acres and acres of this fragrant tree yield sap for medicines and perfumeries all around the world. There is a rainforest preserve, Kalopa Park, just 3 miles upslope from the hwy. It’s tricky to find, but Tour Guide will show you the way to this peaceful cabin camp spot with horseback riding and bird watching.

As you continue driving south, you cross many bridges over gorges and valleys, many of which have viewable waterfalls and rivers that empty into the ocean. Don’t forget to stop and get some pictures this unique scenery. The terrain is lush and green with a huge variety of tropical flowers. Other crops also come into view such as mangoes, papayas, ginger and bananas. Tour Guide will tell you about the trains that used to transport sugar cane to the mills near Hilo and you can stop and see the train museum along the way.

Next up is one of the most famous and beautiful waterfalls in Hawaii, Akaka Falls, a 420 ft. fall, which is just 3 miles off the hwy, but worlds away. The one mile hike on a paved trail through the rainforest will pass two smaller waterfalls as well as orchid, heleconia, plumeria and other tropical plants. Tour Guide will tell the history of this area as well.

For more information on visiting Hawaii in general and touring the Big Island in particular, go to www.tourguidehawaii.com and here.